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Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land 
All the Nasties 
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Cowboyography 
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Cowboyography 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Todd Skinner '88
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Feb 11, 2009
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Description 

This amazing route has 2 distinct cruxes at 1/3 and 2/3 height. Expect alot of arm-melting runouts on large huecos with the crux being small crimps and shallow dishes. I call this a sport/trad route as it's about 50/50 between bolts and weird large cams. Not a recommended lead if you have to project at the grade, but well worth it if you're solid.


Location 

Around the corner to the right of Malice in Bucketland in the crevice and on the same formation. A very obvious hueco line with bolts. As soon as you start drooling, you're there.


Protection 

Kinda freaky gear due to the strict bolting policy. 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Expect long runouts between bolts with supplemental Big Bros or Large Camalots to backup the sparse bolts.



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