This is one awesome climb with nice technical/sequential, balancey and bouldery moves on very smooth rock.
Use a clip stick or a spotter while going for the first bolt.
Start with you right hand in the smooth pocket that you can reach and your left foot on the tiny sooth ledge. Lay back on the right hand as you pop up and rock over to the left to grab yet another smooth side-pull pocket with the left hand and work you way to a comfortable lay-back position to clip the first bolt.
Smooth moves on small holds to the large pocket you can stand in just below the crux section.
Get your left foot into the lower section of the smooth pocket, putting your left foot on either of the two small ledges doesn't work. Use the small right-hand side pull and small left hold with you thumb and forefinger pressing down creating opposing tension. Work your right foot on the surface above the vertical pocket. Keeping your hands where they are side-pull and push up to lift the left leg to the small ledge then go for the small hold with the left hand. It slightly easier yet still strenuous moves to the ledge.
Getting above the ledge on the small holds is the second crux portion. the it is sustained moves on small and smooth rock.
A very enjoyable and rewarding climb.
There are 7 bolts to the chains about 16m.
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great route with two small crux areas. I’d grade it a little lower as a 5.10c or French 6b