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Cowboy Poetry
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Cowboy Poetry 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Piana
Page Views: 2,058
Submitted By: richard magill on Aug 21, 2006

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Description 

Beautiful line that can be done to the first anchor at 11b or all the way to the top at 12b.

Overhangs slightly and climbs stellar pockets.

The most distinguising feature is an obvious 6 foot long edge that angles from low left to upper right towards the middle of the route. The edge is all chalked up and from below you fully expect a jug when you get there. However, the edge is actually some sloper action! Fun!

Location 

On the left side of the wall. Look for a route with the aforementioned diagonal edge in it. You can't miss it.

Protection 

7 or 8 bolts to the first anchor, 11 or 12 bolts to the second anchor


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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 23, 2006

Any word on the bolts that Alf added/chopped/what have you? I'd heard from John and Micah just as things were heating up over it.
By richard magill
Aug 24, 2006

My understanding is that there is now another alternate finish at the top that goes at 5.10. As far as I know, none of the older bolts were affected.