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 ADVANCED
Cabin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack 
Better Left Undone 
Cowboy Justice 
Four-Wheel Low 
Fred and Barney's Crack 
Junk Corner 
Left Horseshoe Finger 
Left-facing Corner (unknown) 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station 
Rednekk Justus 
Right Horseshoe Finger 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) 
S Crack 
TH Crack 
Three Blocks 
Unknown Awkward 
Unknown Finger Crack 
Unknown Fingers 
Unknown Flake 
Willy's Hand Jive 

Cowboy Justice 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Slade on Mar 11, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: It is the crack left of the corner.

Description 

Start just left of "Passion For Pumping". Work up an overhanging finger crack past a bolt. Continue up a vertical, continuous, finger crack.


Location 

This route is just left of "Passion For Pumping" on the Cabin Wall.


Protection 

A bolt and gear.



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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Although the route is long, there are many rests. I thought that this was more of a 5.11 to 5.11+. Thanks to whoever updated the anchors semi-recently. Anyone know any info about the thing crack with a bolt at the beginning that is to the left of this climb?

By chris righter
Apr 6, 2011

Hey Jesse, I think this post is for the climb with a bolt to the left of Pumping Station. I don't think this route has anchors on it. I would be really surprised if it was ever redpointed. I got on it and broke off a lot of loose holds trying to get up it on TR using the Pumping Station anchors. The top thin crack after the corner/roof section is totally friable, shallow/flared, and very hard to protect. It is at least 5.12 to where the thin crack starts halfway up, and gets way harder after that...5.13 at least. I assumed it was an abandoned groundup attempt given it had a bolt at the start but no anchors. I could be wrong. Does anyone know if it has actually been freed?

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

I should practice my reading skills some more.. Thanks for the Catch, Chris.

By Jeremy H
Dec 31, 2011

I was told that this route has not seen a first ascent, and I believe it. My buddy TR'ed the first 3/4 of the route from the anchors on the route to the right and found that the rock has not been cleaned at all. Dirt raining down, holds broke off, not shoe rubber/chalk, loose blocks, no signs of wear on the crack, and no anchors. My buddy had heard that a guy tried it from the ground up and abandoned at the bolt. Definitely 5.13.

By rob pizem
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c

After having given this a couple TR burns, it was clear that few people, if anyone else, have even tried this route. After one burn, I broke off nearly every hold that I grabbed. That being said, it is not 5.12 and most likely mid-5.13. It needs its own anchors and some cleaning and will turn out to be a fun climb. The opening moves are on some crappy rock and involve a shoulder breaker move on your left side as you pass the lone bolt. Climb over the bolt through a bit more junk to good placements and some power liebacking into the face above. Tips jams take you to the top. This route requires knowing where the gear goes up top in order to not take up your precious finger placements. Looking forward to cleaning it up and giving it a honest effort in the future.