By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 12, 2010 rating: 5.11c/d
This route is HORRIBLY bolted. Needs to be fixed. How about a TR before you put the bolts in? Might put them in the correct places then. My $0.02.
I find it interesting that you've made comments about the crappy bolting on three routes that I've not heard anyone else complain about. Could it be your expectations are too high or perhaps you're not climbing the routes very well?
There's a difference between complaining and constructive criticism. Complaining is useless while constructive criticism is helpful and has a high probability of ensuring corrective action is taken. This comment is more of the former. The climbers that took the time, effort and expense to put in a route for all of us to climb are nice guys who are very interested in safety and climbers enjoying the routes. If you can be more specific about which bolt(s) you found to be HORRIBLY placed, I'm confident the FA guys will take that into consideration. I know Josh has personally moved bolts on other routes he has put up after hearing feedback from others. He allowed me to add an additional bolt and chain to the anchor on Pegasus after I got unnecessarily concerned about the anchor. He was not offended or bothered by my suggestion as he has the utmost respect for the safety of us climbers at UEF.
Also, I'm pretty sure this line was TRed before being bolted as the majority of routes at UEF have been.
I'm not trying to be condescending or cute. But really, specific examples are most helpful. Placing bolts isn't as easy as it may seem. Many considerations must be taken into account and the best rock for the bolt isn't always right inline with the climbing. This is especially true at UEF given the rock quality.
The controversy on the bolting of this route and it's neighbor Schadenfreude, along with the fact that they were in the morning shade, had me on both several times this summer as warmups for the SW Wall. This climb is super fun, requiring balance, technique, and a bit of brawn. The bolt placements are well thought out and safe (requiring an attentive belayer at the bottom as is always true), given the ever-present variables at UEF of rock quality and rope drag. The first 12 feet are hard for the grade, which perhaps contributed to some disenchantment, but with beta the grade seems accurate.