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Cow Pies For Breakfast 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 17, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Description 

Steep climbing with the crux going past the third bolt. Fairly "sequency" for clipping the bolt at the crux. Challenging again going past the last bolt to the two-bolt anchor. One of, if not the, best routes on the Cattle Call wall.


Location 

Listed as route #7 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Cattle Call Wall.


Protection 

6 bolts to two-bolt anchor.



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Nice, powerful moves through the 3rd bolt. I'm not too keen on the placement of the 1st bolt though--the rock is solid there, but it's placed in a dish such that a fall onto the 1st bolt would cross-load the carabiner. The moves after the 3rd bolt aren't as difficult as the bottom, but it they're still nice and sustained. The best route on Cattle Call Wall IMO.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 24, 2008

And to add to George's comment, we left the two Metolius rap hangers that did serve as the anchor in situ. I didn't have a small enough socket to remove the five-piece bolt. The hangers are a bit loose anyhow so we opted to install new bolts to go with the new Fixe sport anchors. I'll go back to remove the old hangers at some point but if someone else wants 'em, go for it.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Sep 3, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

It is also easy to set up a bomber top rope anchor with long slings or trad gear.

By Riley Evans
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Excellent pumpy moves at first. Sequence moves. I like the move from 2nd to 3rd bolt.

By Bill Howard
From: Modesto, CA
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route! A very spicy crux if you are on lead. Sustained 5.10 moves throughout the climb. I agree that placement of the first bolt is a little questionable. However, it does seem to be needed. I recommend an alpine draw with a 60cm runner to prevent rope drag. Caveat to that set up is if you fall before setting you second bolt you will likely deck.