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Training Camp
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Covey Leader to Raven 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 30, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The Training Camp two-pitch routes.
2 [[1...

Description 

A very enjoyable route with a first pitch on loose, fractured rock that is nevertheless pretty fun.

P1 (5.9, 70') An intimidating 5.9 on really poor rock; it is, regardless, quite fun. The start is overhanging with crumbly footholds; getting off the ground is probably the hardest part. Even crumblier rock awaits, and getting up and over “the horn” partway up the pitch requires some effort as well. Eventually you reach much better quality quartzite and a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.

P2 (5.9, 70') Climb on beautiful, hard quartzite following the bolt line to the left (the route to the right comes quite close to this one at the belay, and it is possible to use the line to the right as the second pitch if desired). Solid, positive holds abound until the upper, smoother face when the holds get a little scarcer and less positive, requiring more in the way of sidepulls. The route goes around the left side of the roof right at the end; the last bolt is at the left side of the overhang.


Location 

Located on a tall buttress on the north side of the canyon, at the west end, just before the terrain starts sloping down to the west. Find the line of bolts that starts behind a small tree on the east side of the buttress. There are two bolted lines visible to this route’s right; there is also one bolted route to its left but that line isn’t visible from the start of this route.


Protection 

P1 9 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors.
P2 8 bolts, chain anchors.



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Grunting through the disintegrating start of Covey Leader to Raven
Grunting through the disintegrating start of Covey...
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By Lee Jensen
Mar 30, 2008

If you think of the first pitch simply as a difficult approach to the amazing second pitch, then you have to give this route at least three stars. The upper pitch is perfect beautiful rock. As you traverse left under the roof the exposure is amazing. Well worth the effort to get on this one.

By Darren Knezek
Mar 30, 2008

It's called: Covey Leader To Raven.
That first pitch is one crumbly bastard, but puts a little adventure into sport climbing. I bolted the route after seeing that killer rock higher up. The exposure definitely put the icing on the cake.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 31, 2008

Renamed from "Unremembered Name".

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jan 17, 2009

The first pitch is some really, really, REALLY crappy rock. I pulled a hold off at the start, sending a shower of pebbles down into my face and sending me into the little tree at the start. Maybe I'm just weak from several months of moderate trad climbing, but the first few moves seemed harder than 5.9 to me. Or maybe it was just because I felt like I couldn't trust the rock. A bit higher on the first pitch is a really awkward flared spot. I was afraid to trust any of the holds but I could get a couple hand jams in.

Having said that, I thought the upper pitch was absolutely stellar! Probably my favorite 5.9 pitch in the canyon. That first pitch, though... Way worse even than the first pitch of Brain Full of Spiders (which we did earlier in the day; also a fun climb).

We rapped off with a single 60m rope.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 17, 2009

I agree with the sentiments about the first pitch (LAME!). And the second pitch makes it all worth it. The little left traverse under the roof is way cool!

The top chain is a bit weird (the one on the right is in a strange spot considering the rock all around the left one is so good). Some quick links on the ends of the chains would make them good.

By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
May 20, 2010

I am seconding the sentiment that the first pitch is junk. I lead it and considered it a character-building experience. My partner pulled a larger-than-bowling ball sized block off which nailed him in the leg. . .

The second pitch does truly rock though.