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Routes in Rough Canyon
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Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cousin It T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Lemon Squeezer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Tabeguache Tower T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C0 R |
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Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Nate Wilson and Bradley Sheneman |
| Page Views: | 1,004 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bradley Sheneman on Sep 21, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Location
150 meters up canyon from Uncle Fester on top of a rock pile. Shade can be found here in the AM.
Description
The crux is at the first overhang, but you really don't get much rest through the whole climb except for right before the first overhang. The route has 2 bolts beside the flake, because the flake is fairly thin, and we thought it would break if any gear was fallen on.
Oct. 17, 2018: we decided the bolts for the first pitch were in the wrong location, so we pulled them and extended the route another 25 feet. This will make it so the second pitch doesn't have as much rope drag. The bolts are past the second overhang and below the third one, hard to see from the bottom of the route, but if you step back, they can be seen. The second roof adds a lot to the climb and keeps the first pitch the same rating of 5.11 b/c. Nate Wilson led it without falling or hanging. The rest of us hung as we followed (Brad Sheneman, Dave Brito, KC Luis).
Nate had a little issue with rope drag from a piece placed right and below the first overhang. We figured if you placed just below the roof and as far left as possible with a 0.3 Camalot and added a long sling, the rope would stay out of the crack once you pull the roof. It wasn't an issue until after the roof was below the lead climber.
If you can climb 5.11 trad, this is a must do route!
Oct. 17, 2018: we decided the bolts for the first pitch were in the wrong location, so we pulled them and extended the route another 25 feet. This will make it so the second pitch doesn't have as much rope drag. The bolts are past the second overhang and below the third one, hard to see from the bottom of the route, but if you step back, they can be seen. The second roof adds a lot to the climb and keeps the first pitch the same rating of 5.11 b/c. Nate Wilson led it without falling or hanging. The rest of us hung as we followed (Brad Sheneman, Dave Brito, KC Luis).
Nate had a little issue with rope drag from a piece placed right and below the first overhang. We figured if you placed just below the roof and as far left as possible with a 0.3 Camalot and added a long sling, the rope would stay out of the crack once you pull the roof. It wasn't an issue until after the roof was below the lead climber.
If you can climb 5.11 trad, this is a must do route!
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