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Courthouse Butte

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A Day in Court T 
Coyote Tower T 
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) T,S 
Justice of the Peace T 
Prosecutor, The T 
South Bowl Route (Right) T 

Courthouse Butte Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 34.801, -111.75488 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,036
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 24, 2006
Forecast:
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Courthouse Butte from the trail.

Description 

Courthouse Butte is the humongous looking mesa formation that sits just east of Bell Rock (Oak Creek Villages). There are only a handful of routes on this massive formation. I believe the first ascent was done many years back (early 1900's) by a Flagstaff hiking club, but haven't found any documentation to back this up yet.

Getting There 

Park in the main Bell Rock trailhead across from the Bike 'n Bean bike shop. Take good (golf cart quality) wide trail right over to Courthouse Butte.

Climbing Season

For the Bell Rock / Courthouse Butte area.

Weather station 3.7 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Courthouse Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Courthouse Butte:
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Coyote Tower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 400'   
The Prosecutor   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Justice of the Peace   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Courthouse Butte

Featured Route For Courthouse Butte
Rock Climbing Photo: pat brown leading the last pitch of coyote tower

Coyote Tower 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  AZ : *Sedona Area : ... : Courthouse Butte
Coyote Tower is an exceptional route with lots of good pitches. From the summit, the views are really cool as well and you'll be amazed at how high up you get. Start as described below.P1) Climb up multi-bulge face (5.8) with bolts to a fixed anchor above. Then scramble up to the base of the second pitch up and left.P2) Crux pitch. There are a couple stiff spots on this pitch, but basically climb in crack system left of a buttress, with an overhanging tight-hands crack at the top to a fixed bela...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Courthouse Butte Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott M. McNamara
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 17, 2016
First(non-indigenous)recorded ascent probably----Lumberjack Hikers—ASC [now NAU] hiking club (early 1950's) i.e. Dr. Harvey Butchard & Boyd Moore.

According to Grand Obsession, Butler & Myers, Puma Press, 2007, p.104--- Dr. Butchard wrote a friend:

You have now found out what my most skillful and daring climb is like, Courthouse Butte. Boyd Moore and I did that...I carried a light rope ahead with me but there was no thought of belaying the leader. At one place I recall shinnying up a column of rock as one might climb a fairly large pine. I braced and held the rope for Boyd to follow...I used to say that if I would do that two more times, I would kill myself at least once.

amazon.com/Grand-Obsession-Har...
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 18, 2016
Not certain on the validity but I believe that the "first" climb of Sedona and Courthouse dates back to the 1930's and was accessed via the 'Rib Route' on the South Side of Courthouse. I believe this pre-dates the for mentioned Butchard recollection. Not sure if this is blended history though...

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