This is the big, obvious overhanging route that follows the steep wall, cuts right to a hanging dihedral, and goes all the way to the top of the cliff left of "Staying Power" and "Sparkle in the Rain". By the looks of it, it has been recently retrobolted. This route is now equiped with big, modern, black hangers. The route has seen little traffic, despite beeing a superb, long, multi-cruxed line that can be defined as "adventure sport climbing". I broke off a huge basketball-sized jug way up high, and cleaned a lot more of the route off, so now it should be safe, but use caution, as this doesnt see very many accents...it also definitely fits in with old school Shelf ratings, have fun!
It is left of Staying Power in the big, overhanging, roof sector, about 40 feet left of the Sureal Estate Wall.
Bring 14 draws.
|By Dan G0D5H411|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 14, 2014
This route has received some much-needed attention. Last time I was on it, it was basically a vertical sandbox. The holds have been brushed, loose blocks removed at the crux, strange tat removed near the dihedral and the sun-bleached webbing removed from the first set of anchors (replaced with quicklinks and chains). This section should be good to go and climbs very well. There is an extension above the first set of anchors that also looks very fun and challenging, but it is guarded by a very hollow-sounding shelf of large blocks. They will probably hold body weight for a while, but your rope is directly in the fall line if they come off.