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 ADVANCED
Orifice Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ape Debate S 
Brightest Fire, The S 
Coup de' tat S 
Disfigured Foreigner S 
Eureka S 
Flyer Starter S 
Gettin' Off The Porch S 
Granite of the Apes S 
Hard Day at The Orifice S 
Heel-A Monster S 
Hereiophobia T 
Huck Fin S 
In Search of Silence S 
Oedipus Complex S 
Orifice Politics S 
Unattended Consequences S 

Coup de' tat 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Vince Bates, EFR,'09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,147
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 21, 2009

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EFR using his patented C4 Stealth turban to milk t...
Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bolted in 2001 and worked on by a number of people Vince finally worked out the cruxes. This route goes on and on. Despite the knee bars that allow numerous rests you are working the whole time. Two cruxes, one low and the very sequential and harder high crux lead to forty feet of less overhanging 5.11 to finish the route.


Location 

This route starts the same as Orifice Politics but busts out right following a thin seam at the small roof just right of a big vertical rail.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Coup de' tat Slideshow Add Photo
Summer weather at the summit... Ravens and Rap Rock from Orifice Wall
Summer weather at the summit... Ravens and Rap Roc...
Eyeing the next undercling on the crux of Coup d'e tat.
Eyeing the next undercling on the crux of Coup d'e...
Pete on the lower crux of Coup de' tat
Pete on the lower crux of Coup de' tat
Pete head jammed on Coup de' tat
Pete head jammed on Coup de' tat
Pete on Coup de' tat
Pete on Coup de' tat
EFR getting the back-handed cross through move.
EFR getting the back-handed cross through move.
EFR taking another run.
EFR taking another run.
EFR at the first crux before the Miko (SP?)Bar was found.  Makes this section a tad easier.
EFR at the first crux before the Miko (SP?)Bar was...
Falling from the crux...
Falling from the crux...
Pete on the start of Coup de' tat
Pete on the start of Coup de' tat
Pete on Coup de' tat
Pete on Coup de' tat
Vince working out the low crux in '08
Vince working out the low crux in '08
Pete on Coup de' tat
Pete on Coup de' tat
Awesome times at the Orifice Wall! go Pete!
Awesome times at the Orifice Wall! go Pete!
EFR on the other end of the rope
EFR on the other end of the rope
Jesse Schultz just below the roof where Coup climbs up under the roof then heads right.Orifice Politics continues up rail then works left a little.
Jesse Schultz just below the roof where Coup climb...
RIP Wendy O
RIP Wendy O
Comments on Coup de' tat Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2011
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 22, 2009

Redpoint!!!!! Awesome work Vince!!!!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 27, 2009

You gotta love the various names given some moves. Mary Poppins, half Poppin. Miko Bar, replaces Euro Foot .aggotry, Head and Shoulders, Dorito, Fred Nicole. Now if I could only put them all together.

By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

way to go Vince and Eric!!!! great sends!!!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 3, 2009

Gracious Amigo!

By Aleix
Aug 4, 2009

Inspiring sends, amazing indeed, and I got to watch them both. :-)
Congrats!!

Since I am not american, I had to look up "tat" and this is what wikipedia says: "Thematic Apperception Test or TAT has been amongst the most widely used, researched, and taught projective psychological tests. Its adherents claim that it taps a subject's unconscious to reveal repressed aspects of personality, motives and needs for achievement, power and intimacy, and problem-solving abilities."

How do you guys choose your route's names ?!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 6, 2009

Great send Eric!!!! Wish I was there to see it!

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 7, 2009

Nice Eric!!!

PS Aleix "tat" means like old slings left behind to rap, etc

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2009

exactly. the literal translation of this climb's name is "chicken house filled with old slings and webbing." :)

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 7, 2009

Das ist korrekt Mr Hundal

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 7, 2009

Chicken wing is what I got with my left arm while in the head and shoulders rest. Tat is what we removed when we started working on this route last year. Chicken shit is how we feel the first day back at the Orifice wall. Couped up is how we feel when mother nature calls in a big way and we need to get off the ledge in a hurry. Wow what a great name Vince. I think you have a knack for this.

By karatepete
From: tucson, AZ
Sep 24, 2009

do not jump from the anchors of this route! Listen to EFR, just, "step off."

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 4, 2010

congratulations to joe kreidel on his send today!!! way to go joe!!


Joe nailing the crux
Joe nailing the crux

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 6, 2010

Congratulations goes out to Jesse Shultz for what I believe is the forth redpoint of this route. Way to go!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 7, 2010

yeah jesse!!

By Aleix
Sep 7, 2010

Yes, Jesse sent it yesterday, but it wasn't just a send: right when he got past the crux it started pouring and had to do the last upper section with rain in his eyes and water flowing over the holds. The waterfalls at the rim and out of the orifice chimney appeared. He stuck with it and finished the damn thing, an epic send. When I lowered him he was soaked as a duck. Probably the hardest send of that route. Congrats Jesse !

By JSchultz
Sep 10, 2010

Thanks guys. Sending that was one of the hardest things I have ever done. I still can't believe it.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 10, 2010

"Soaked as a duck" lol :-)

Nice job Jesse!

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 18, 2011

Did i hear correctly? Are another round of congratulations in order?!?!

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Wow. Went up it twice. Second try I made it to the final crux and forgot to get the undercling!!!!!!!! It will be very close from now on when I give it send attempts! Can't wait to touch this stone again!

By RyanJames
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Wow Jesse! Nice ascent! Sounds epic!

The crux of this route has what I thought to be the cleanest rock on the Orifice Wall - textured, kitchen-counter-quality granite.

PMac's send: www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/finally-i-can-slee>>>

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 27, 2011

Congratulations to Canada Eric Ruljancich for his excellent send today! This is his first 5.13!

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 27, 2011

Yeah that was bad-ass today Eric :-)

By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 27, 2011

Nice going Canada! First 13 and it is a good one. Way to go.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Sep 28, 2011

Perfect sending weather today!

Hail during
Hail during


Hail after
Hail after

By JSchultz
Oct 2, 2011

I recently heard that you sent Coup...Way to go Eric! That's awesome! And your first at that grade, way to go. That one won't be downgraded (unless Nipleit the troll visits and sends it on gear).
Congratulations bud!!