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Country-Western Crags

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Country-Western Crags Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jan 27, 2011


65° | 45°

68° | 45°
Memorial Day

69° | 46°

62° | 43°

62° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Country-Western Crags from the road.


This is a collection of small crags and blocks that contain many interesting, short crack climbs and a few bolted routes as well. The hillside gets abundant sunshine and one could conceivably climb here throughout the year. The rock is generally high quality and can be a little sharp, so taping up might be prudent. The routes are not particularly long or classic, but a good time can be had here.

It's hard to see from the road, but the crags can be organized as four bands (as per the Gillett guidebook to the canyon). The third band is the easiest to distinguish from the road as it has the most prominent features. Some third-class scrambling may be needed to access the individual climbs in each band.

Getting There 

Drive about six miles up the canyon from downtown Lyons. Parking is at the first major pullout on the left after passing through the Narrows. Walk about 50 yards back down the canyon and look sharp for a small trail going up the hillside. The trail is reminiscent of the approach to Happy Hour Crag in Boulder Canyon (steep and loose at the beginning but improves quickly). The trail is generally easy to follow and there are cairns here and there to guide your way. I found it easier to follow the trail going up than down, but your mileage may vary. About five minutes up the trail you'll encounter an old barbed-wire fence (the wire is on the ground where you cross). After passing a buttress on your right, you'll be able to see most of the prominent features. The approaches to the third band and fourth bands are the most straightforward, but finding the path of least resistance to your objective may require a little trial and error.

Climbing Season

For the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon area.

Weather station 8.9 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Country-Western Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Country-Western Crags:
High Noon (submitted as Shangri-La Slab)   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Second Band : Shangri-La Slab
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Country-Western Crags

Featured Route For Country-Western Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: High Noon on Shangri-La slab.

High Noon (submitted as Shangri-La Slab) 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  CO : Lyons : ... : Shangri-La Slab
I may have the name wrong, but this is the right-side route on the Shangri-La Slab. Start behind a tree, making some .9+ moves up to a rightward traverse under a "wave" of rock. Plug a cam or two in the crack, haul up and over to the crux headwall. There is a move that felt .10c to me, but really only the one. Very nice climb overall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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