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Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher 
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Warp Riders 

Counterstroke 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Levin & Andy Donson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 556
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Nov 30, 2002
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Counterstroke is the obvious and independent line between the second pitch of Point Break, and Another Pipeline Bone Crusher. The climbing is interesting, technical, and strenuous.

Above and right from the 2-bolt anchor atop P1 Point Break is a wide, pink corner leading to a roof and a leaning, right-facing corner above. One can solo to the 2-bolt anchors via a broken 5.0 ledge system directly below, or climb the first pitch of Point Break.

Start left and down from a small tree and make a poorly-protected 5.11- move to establish yourself in the base of the corner. Positive holds lead up 10 feet to a ramp (on the left) and the start of the crux climbing. With good gear, make moves up and right onto the face, then mantle up and left to the roof (watch out for a flexible flake under the roof). A radical stem is used to surmount the overhang. Reach to the hanging tooth above, then handjam and layback up and right, in a right-facing corner.

The climb was established "head point" style on natural gear. It is only dangerous at the boulder-problem start and could certainly be led onsight now that it has been cleaned up a bit. Andy: British E5/6 6a, or something like that.


Protection 

Several #2 and #3 RPs, small to medium wired stoppers, double set TCUs, two #1 Friends, #1 Camalot. We used a #2 Ball nut to protect the 5.9 corner after the initial unprotected start. There is very good gear from the start of the hardest climbing to the top of the pitch. 1 (or 2) ropes off from the slings around the tree at top of P2 Point Break.



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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2002

Andy lost the coin toss so I got to lead this first, placing all the gear, then I cleaned it and Andy led it in similar fashion.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 9, 2002

The flex flake under the roof is now gone.

After a repeat of this climb yesterday (12-8-02) I think the .12a grade may be soft.

By Rich Aschert
Jan 9, 2003

Steve-What is your definition of head point? Was the route established with pre-placed gear or was the protection placed on lead for the first ascent?

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2003

Rich- In this case all gear was placed on the lead (both Andy and I led it).

A "headpoint" lead is the culmination of toprope rehearsal, cleaning (if necessary), and gear inspection, using clean gear only (in my definition). Matt Samet does a good job presenting headpointing in the Current Features section of this site under Hound Dog Flaming- if you can stomach the thread discussion; and both Matt and Steve Dieckhoff raise some interesting justifications for using the headpoint approach in Eldo under The Lion (Wind Tower) route description comments.