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The Main Amphitheater
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Accidental Tourist, The T 
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 
Black and Tan T 
Broken Chain T 
Could Be Worse T 
Counter Curse T 
Dark and Stormy T 
Dark Arts T 
Darkest Hour T 
Death and Taxes T 
Fade To Black T 
False Prophet T 
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Gemini Dragonfire T 
Lakshmi Singh T 
Logic Bomb T,S 
Lord Humongous T 
Pressure Drop T,S 
Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
Sphere of Influence T 
There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

Counter Curse 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 715
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Myself on an early run...

Description 

Counter Curse offers some really good climbing on bulletproof black rock that is bookended by two hard-to-decipher cruxes. Begin as for Dark Arts, but just before the bolt on that pitch traverse left along a horizontal to a roof/alcove. Clip a bolt here and step up into a V-slot. All I can say is good luck. Maybe try that SuperTopo Harding Slot beta...

Above this follow a vague corner with thin gear to some jugs about 20' below the anchors. A difficult move here leads up to some good edges and the chains. This is a brilliantly perplexing climb.

Protection 

Thin pro (gear to 1/2"), wires, draws.


Photos of Counter Curse Slideshow Add Photo
Moving into the mysterious low flare crux...  This section has shut down many an onsight attempt! <br />My tall boy beta is to layback the flare pinch facing left. There are a couple different crimps out right to balance, and then a small dead point to a wrapper jug, which is still to the right of the flare....
Moving into the mysterious low flare crux... This...

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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

"Brilliantly perplexing" is a good description of this route. I found the low bulge to be the crux. There was another tough move up high as well. I would not argue with anyone who wanted to rate this route a 5.12. It certainly took a 5.12 effort for me to onsight it.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2010

You gotta stay slightly right of the "V" slot, small crimps and a deadpoint to a huge hold.