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Main Wall
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Couch Warrior S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Couch Warrior 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Luke Laeser, Ted Geving and Carlo Torres, 7/21/98
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 17, 2010

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Description 

Lichen, a scary move just before a hard 3rd clip, and ambiguous "crack on/off" rules, may explain the lack of traffic on what is one of the easier Main Wall routes.

Climb up to the 2nd bolt below the roof, maybe or maybe not using the wide cobwebbed crack to its right. Undercling to reach out, & turn the roof, which is a fun, neat sequence, but has potential to take big whippers onto the bolt under the roof and maybe hit your belayer, even though you're so close to being able to clip the 3rd bolt. This is followed by a good rest stance. Continue up a lichen-covered vertical face, maybe or maybe not using the crack to its right.

Originally rated 5.12b. Regardless of whether you use the crack to the right or avoid it, you still have to climb the crux.

Location 

Rightmost bolted route on the Main Wall

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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By Laeserguns
Sep 2, 2010

Probably the least good of the main, main wall routes. FA also included Ted Geving and Carlo Torres