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Cottontail is located on the Left Book between Manifest Destiny and Zingando. Like Zingando, it's an excellent choice when the more popular routes like Hiatus and White Whale are occupied. The start is up and to the left of the base of the wall, under two, left-facing, left-angling dihedrals.
P1. Face climb a short distance to the bottom dihedral (Manifest Destiny climbs above the upper dihedral) and then continue up and left to a spacious belay in what Gillett calls a left-facing "curious mouth-shaped belay stance."
P2. By far the best pitch. Continue up and left to join a long, sustained, right-facing dihedral. There are actually a couple of finger to hand sized cracks for protection. The dihedral bulges to the right and then cuts back to the left. Be careful with protection here, as a bad placement will result in terrible rope drag higher up (where you don't want it). Continue up the sustained dihedral and belay at the top on Paperback Ledge. Walk off to the left.
From the second belay, you can climb a short, easy pitch to the right that leads up to the Hiatus/White Whale finish. Good, sustained climb.
Standard rack - stoppers and cams.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the classic dihedral on the 2nd pitch...
|By craggin carl|
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Another intricate slab jubilee of fascinating movements. Truly a rare precious peach of a climb. This was our last climb today, was kind of tired, so I thought it was a bit harder, 5.7c/d.
Nov 1, 2008
Great route. Best done while simul-climbing. The dihedral on the last pitch is great.
|By Mark Roth|
May 17, 2009
2nd pitch is classic. This is a good alternative to the more popular routes here if the lines are too long (always).