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 ADVANCED
Cottontail Crag
Select Route:
Arms Race S 
Bunny Roof T,S 
Cottontail Crack T,S 
Cottontail Right T,S,TR 
Destroyer S 
Pay at the Pump S,TR 

Cottontail Right 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Caldwells, c.1990
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Feb 12, 2002

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Description 

Really fun hybrid route on the narrow west end of the crag. There are 2 cracks on this narrow face. Take the right one which is about 5.8 intitially. Then, make a hard move (5.11ish) over a bulge protected by small gear, and move up past 2 bolts with sustained 5.11 face climbing to a 2-bolt anchor. It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a top-rope.

Protection 

Bring some small Friends and small-medium stoppers, and save 2 QD for where the bolts above the crack.


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By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome route on a beautiful crag! Tried it last night and fell off the last move before it is possible to clip the first bolt and snapped the wire of the small fixed wire about 2/3 the way up the crack. The gear is bomber but took me a lot of effort to place.
By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fired the route to the chains last night and definitely cannot agree with the 11+ rating. It is no harder than 5.11a. Also be wary that after you clip the 2nd bolt you are still far from done, even though that is your last pro.