A. Baldwin on Psycho Wrangler
This is a great little crag outside of the New River Gorge proper (although still on the north side of the river). It's home to a number of sport routes of fairly good quality. Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a is not to be missed. This area tends to stay wet after a rain and it gets sun after about 2PM.
From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail behind the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail. You can also access this area by taking Rt 60 (North of Fayetteville) and make a left when you hit Rt 16 and follow it down the hill to the parking on the left before the bridge.
Weather station 1.3 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cotton Top
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cotton Top
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cotton Top:
Cottonmouth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cottonhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Q-tip 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Cotton Top
Psycho Wrangler 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Cotton Top
This is the route worth coming to this area for. Start at the right end of an overhanging face with a gray bottom and orange top. Climb up and traverse left past the first bolt. From here, trend up and left to reach the overhang at the 2nd right facing dihedral from the right. There's a rest at every bolt to the overhang. Pull the overhang aiming for the base of the upper orange left leaning dihedral (crux). Gain a stance and make a thin move, then its good holds to the finish. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
Jul 14, 2015
Wanted to clarify something about the cotton top approach trail. The trail starts about 3-4 yards from the road and is easy to miss, as there is lots of ground cover in the area.