This is a great little crag outside of the New River Gorge proper (although still on the north side of the river). It's home to a number of sport routes of fairly good quality. Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a is not to be missed. This area tends to stay wet after a rain and it gets sun after about 2PM.
From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail behind the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail. You can also access this area by taking Rt 60 (North of Fayetteville) and make a left when you hit Rt 16 and follow it down the hill to the parking on the left before the bridge.
Weather station 1.3 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cotton Top
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cotton Top
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cotton Top:
Cottonmouth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cottonhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Q-tip 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Audiophering 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Cotton Top
Cottonmouth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Cotton Top
Begin at the right end of the wall on slabby territory with positive holds until you encounter the beautiful orange rock above. Make a couple of moves to a small letterbox slot, then crank consistent sustained moves on the gently overhanging headwall. This route is quite pumpy and might feel a letter sandbagged. It would also go on solid gear if you felt so inclined - good horizontals throughout with solid placements. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
Jul 14, 2015
Wanted to clarify something about the cotton top approach trail. The trail starts about 3-4 yards from the road and is easy to miss, as there is lots of ground cover in the area.