This is a great little crag outside of the New River Gorge proper (although still on the north side of the river). It's home to a number of sport routes of fairly good quality. Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a is not to be missed. This area tends to stay wet after a rain and it gets sun after about 2PM.
From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail behind the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail. You can also access this area by taking Rt 60 (North of Fayetteville) and make a left when you hit Rt 16 and follow it down the hill to the parking on the left before the bridge.
12 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Cotton Top
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cotton Top:
Cotton Gin and Tonic 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch
Slave Fingers 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 50'
Cottonmouth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cottonhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Q-tip 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
End of Innocence 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cotton the Act 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Psycho Wrangler 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Love Sock 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 60'
Intergalactic Orcas 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Tamarin 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Cotton Top
Cottonhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Cotton Top
This is great climb and serves well as a warm up for some of the other harder lines in the area. Climb the white face straight up to reach the overhang. The finish is a bit pumpy as the crux is reaching the anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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