Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Waimea
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All the Way-A 
Aquarius 
Barracuda 
Big Kahuna 
Bottom Feeder 
Butt Bongo Fiesta 
Catch the Wave 
Charlie Don't Surf 
China Beach 
Cold War 
Concrete Jungle 
Coral Sea 
Cote d'Azure 
Cyberblock 
Dodge the Lemons 
E-Ticket 
Fly, The 
Flying Fish 
Flying Hawaiian 
Gold Coast 
Great White 
Groupie Fantasy 
Hawaii 5-O 
Jaws II 
Livin' Astro 
Localmotion 
Long Board 
Luau 
Man Overboard 
Mauie Wowie 
Muscle Beach 
Open Project 
Original Tsunami 
Restless Native 
Rhythm X 
Riviera  
Short Board 
Sidewalk Surfing 
Silver Surfer 
Spiny Dogfish 
Style That's Free, The 
Suburban 
Surf's Up 
TABDITO 
Technosurfing 
That Crack 
They Died Surfing 
Tsunami 
Tuna Fish is Ludacris 
Urban Surfer 
Vantage Point 
Waimea 
Waimea The Weenie Way 
Whip Tide 

Cote d'Azure 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve Burgerella, 1995
Page Views: 3,716
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Walker on the send!! WOOHOO!!

Description 

Just right of Coral Sea, Cote d'Azure climbs the center of the steep wall on the right side of the raised ledge. Boulder up and clip the first two bolts and then come back down to the ledge to rest.

The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall.

It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent.
(Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Cote d'Azure Slideshow Add Photo
Another one of walker.
Another one of walker.
jump otey jump!
jump otey jump!
otey, last few moves
otey, last few moves
otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
otey, workin it...
otey, workin it...
otey sticking the crux grab
otey sticking the crux grab
wow... cool...
wow... cool...
otey pulling over the roof...
otey pulling over the roof...
i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with the tree tops below...
i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with t...
Comments on Cote d'Azure Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 29, 2010

This route deserves a lot more ascents. It has great moves that tax your brains and brawn. I think it spanks a lot of people though. It may be closer to 13c now than originally, as I think a hold changed some. Many strong climbers find it stiff. As with many Rumney climbs, finely tuned beta makes a difference.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 31, 2011

one of the best lines on the cliff!!! the upper half is amazing!!!

By James Otey
From: NH
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney

By FelixBM
Jun 12, 2012

RIP
J'ai cassé la reglette clée à la troisième clip. La difficulté du parcours en a prix un coups. Il y a eu une ascention en moulinette, mais pas à que je sache en libre.
Désolé

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 11, 2013

Has this been climbed free since the latest hold change?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 11, 2013

To the best of my knowledge Zeb Engberg sent it after the hold broke and it was thought to be about 13d...
it has since been restored, the broken hold replaced and i hear it came out perfectly and you cant see anything was done...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

For A while I was thinking this was a step up from other .13b's I had done. The boulder problem at the start is just HARD, with a couple of moves you could easily fall off of. After getting on it today in crisp to almost too cold of conditions, the boulder problem felt significantly easier because of one friction dependent hold. I could still see it getting the b/ c grade, but not as convinced. Moral of the story, crisp temps can help a lot on this one!