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Cota Coca 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Dillon, David Fields, Hiram Bingham 12/26/07
New Route: Yes
Season: Dry, preferably
Page Views: 467
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Jan 14, 2008
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Cota Coca is a recently unearthed Inca city in the Vilcabamba valley of Peru. Ascents of the namesake route are best undertaken with a sense of exploration in mind.

'Cota Coca' takes the chimney system just left of the corner of 'A Tension Span'. Scamper up into the base of the chimney and tread lightly past a precarious section of blocks wedged in the back. A furry squeeze section succumbs with the generous help of face holds and a foot tagged far off to the right. After a fist-sized crack through a roof, a dirt-cone ledge in a corner may be stemmed around (your belayer will thank you, later). A final section of Tarzan-style yarding on hickory limbs regains the horizontal.


Ignore the clean, sweeping lines of Stone Wave and Crash Position and locate the major inside corner between them. The greenish fissure immediately left of the corner is your prey.

Rap from rust on crust on a tree just left of the topout. Ring bolts are sooo 2007.


Up to 3.5", and a big piece. Folks not comfortable in squeezers should bring a 4.5 Camalot; the 4 was alarmingly tippy. Public-service types might consider a wire brush; others might prefer the state of nature.

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By Rob Dillon
Feb 13, 2008

Traffic of the less careful sort might actually make it dirtier...