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A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top.
south face, same start as via valencianos, walk off, say hi to the kitties!
José Ortega surmounts the overhang on pitch 5 of C...