--via RockFax rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=...
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top.
south face, same start as via valencianos, walk off, say hi to the kitties!
José Ortega surmounts the overhang on pitch 5 of ...
By Matt Mendonza
Jan 12, 2015
This route was fantastic, every pitch is fun, and the rock is mostly high quality.
On pitch 5 you can protect the moves to the first bolt with a sling on the large jug block. Not necessary but eases the mind as you make that one move up to the bolt.
The last pitch was just phenomenal excellent move with huge exposure down to the ground.