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BETA PHOTO: Topo
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>
You'll need a full quiver of trickery to complete this route with grace.
Cosmo Wall is a long, intimidating route that enjoys the spoils of what Poko is famous (or should it that be IN-famous?) for: gear-gobbling cracks and airy, technical face climbing on less-than-vertical terrain.
Sounds like a recipe for a four-star route, right?
The route starts off the far left end of the Sting Traverse Ledge, essentially to the left of The Positive Thinking ice route. Follow some unprotected hands and feet (5.8 PG-13) up about 8 feet until you can get your first piece of gear. Continue up the crack system until a small roof with a dodgey pin below it forces you to use some foot-trickery to surmount it to the left.
Place some gear and continue up the pinching crack system until the fingers run out. Place some gear as high in the crack as you can, then embark on some spicy moves up to a left-facing flake. Place some units, then step up, gingerly, to the right to reach the first of two bolts.
Clip it, then finger traverse out left and up to the second bolt. Clip that one, then decide if you want to beach whale it over the bulge to the anchors or make some moves out left over semi-manky terrain to ultimately reach the belay ledge.
Either way, these last few moves are cruxy, so keep your wits about you.
On the left side of the Sting Traverse Ledge about 20 feet up is a double-bolt anchor. This is the start of the route.
A full rack with doubles on small to medium units. about 10 quick draws and double rope for the rappel.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
This is a fantastic route. Long and engaging throughout. A third option for the finish is to join the last three bolts of Easy Street by traversing slightly right. This supposedly bumps the grade up to 11a. However, I didn't think it felt harder than any sequence I encountered earlier on the route.
By Derek Doucet
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
A great pitch. Sustained and engaging throughout. This and its neighbor to the left (Cooney-Norton) are both excellent, mid-range 5.10 pitches that exemplify many of Poko's defining features: discontinuous thin cracks, improbable face climbing, and interesting gear placements requiring some poise and attention. The final bolt shared by both routes is junk, by the way. It's rusty, shallow, and sports an old SMC hanger.