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Routes in Leaning Wall
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Cosmic Trauma T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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Edge of Reason S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Karmic Edges T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leaning Wall Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Patrol T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Spaceshot 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Spaceshot (Free) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vernal Equinox T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 11 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Barry Ward, Alan Humphreys, 4/89 |
| Page Views: | 3,159 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | nelsras on Aug 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Closures in effect March 1
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Description
A quality clean aid line up the middle of the Leaning Wall. A step up in difficulty from Space Shot, but generally a lot less crowded. You can easily fix the first 3 to 4 pitches and then fire the rest in a day, so you don't have to haul.
P1-P3: Same start as Space Shot.
P4: From the ledge were the Space Shot bolt ladder takes off, traverse left and squeeze through the "worm hole" then up to a ledge below a right facing dihedral/squeeze chimney. We had the leader squeeze through the "worm hole" then toss a trail line down to pull the rack up.
(5.8 80 ft)
P5: The start of the route. Squeeze up the chimney, to a bolt ladder through a bulge, to a hanging belay. (5.9 C1, 110ft)
P6: Climb a sweet thin crack using small cams and offset nuts. Ends at a bolted stance below a flared chimney. (C2+, 110ft)
P7: Aid up the thin crack in back of an awkward flared chimney then over a tricky roof to another hanging belay. I found the smallest 3 Lowe Balls especially useful on this pitch. (C3, 100ft)
P8: A little tricky. Aid up and right following discontinuous cracks and hooks to a large ledge at about the same level as Earth Orbit ledge on Space Shot. Watch for loose rocks as you pull onto the ledge. (C3, 100')
P9: Traverse up and left along ledges to the bottom of a big loose gulley. (5.8, 50ft)
P10: Scramble up loose gulley then traverse left along a ledge to a crack in arete around the corner. Set up a belay off an old bolt and 5" cam. (5.grunge, 100ft)
P11: Around the corner climb 5.9 crack in arete using lots of face holds to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch has somewhat of a north aspect so it has a lot of lichen and can be wet in the winter. (5.9, 70ft)
P10/11 Variation: Scramble up loose gulley, then continue straight up 5.10 offwidth. This combines 10 and 11, but it's not very fun. (5.10, 150ft)
P12: Scramble 4th class to the top. (150ft)
Descent: The same as Space Shot. Use caution in the dark, especially if it's winter as there can be icy sections.
P1-P3: Same start as Space Shot.
P4: From the ledge were the Space Shot bolt ladder takes off, traverse left and squeeze through the "worm hole" then up to a ledge below a right facing dihedral/squeeze chimney. We had the leader squeeze through the "worm hole" then toss a trail line down to pull the rack up.
(5.8 80 ft)
P5: The start of the route. Squeeze up the chimney, to a bolt ladder through a bulge, to a hanging belay. (5.9 C1, 110ft)
P6: Climb a sweet thin crack using small cams and offset nuts. Ends at a bolted stance below a flared chimney. (C2+, 110ft)
P7: Aid up the thin crack in back of an awkward flared chimney then over a tricky roof to another hanging belay. I found the smallest 3 Lowe Balls especially useful on this pitch. (C3, 100ft)
P8: A little tricky. Aid up and right following discontinuous cracks and hooks to a large ledge at about the same level as Earth Orbit ledge on Space Shot. Watch for loose rocks as you pull onto the ledge. (C3, 100')
P9: Traverse up and left along ledges to the bottom of a big loose gulley. (5.8, 50ft)
P10: Scramble up loose gulley then traverse left along a ledge to a crack in arete around the corner. Set up a belay off an old bolt and 5" cam. (5.grunge, 100ft)
P11: Around the corner climb 5.9 crack in arete using lots of face holds to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch has somewhat of a north aspect so it has a lot of lichen and can be wet in the winter. (5.9, 70ft)
P10/11 Variation: Scramble up loose gulley, then continue straight up 5.10 offwidth. This combines 10 and 11, but it's not very fun. (5.10, 150ft)
P12: Scramble 4th class to the top. (150ft)
Descent: The same as Space Shot. Use caution in the dark, especially if it's winter as there can be icy sections.
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