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Pitch 8. Lots of hook moves!!
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
A quality clean aid line up the middle of the Leaning Wall. A step up in difficulty from Space Shot, but generally a lot less crowded. You can easily fix the first 3 to 4 pitches and then fire the rest in a day, so you don't have to haul.
P1-P3: Same start as Space Shot.
P4: From the ledge were the Space Shot bolt ladder takes off, traverse left and squeeze through the "worm hole" then up to a ledge below a right facing dihedral/squeeze chimney. We had the leader squeeze through the "worm hole" then toss a trail line down to pull the rack up.
(5.8 80 ft)
P5: The start of the route. Squeeze up the chimney, to a bolt ladder through a bulge, to a hanging belay. (5.9 C1, 110ft)
P6: Climb a sweet thin crack using small cams and offset nuts. Ends at a bolted stance below a flared chimney. (C2+, 110ft)
P7: Aid up the thin crack in back of an awkward flared chimney then over a tricky roof to another hanging belay. I found the smallest 3 Lowe Balls especially useful on this pitch. (C3, 100ft)
P8: A little tricky. Aid up and right following discontinuous cracks and hooks to a large ledge at about the same level as Earth Orbit ledge on Space Shot. Watch for loose rocks as you pull onto the ledge. (C3, 100')
P9: Traverse up and left along ledges to the bottom of a big loose gulley. (5.8, 50ft)
P10: Scramble up loose gulley then traverse left along a ledge to a crack in arete around the corner. Set up a belay off an old bolt and 5" cam. (5.grunge, 100ft)
P11: Around the corner climb 5.9 crack in arete using lots of face holds to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch has somewhat of a north aspect so it has a lot of lichen and can be wet in the winter. (5.9, 70ft)
P10/11 Variation: Scramble up loose gulley, then continue straight up 5.10 offwidth. This combines 10 and 11, but it's not very fun. (5.10, 150ft)
P12: Scramble 4th class to the top. (150ft)
Descent: The same as Space Shot. Use caution in the dark, especially if it's winter as there can be icy sections.
Shares start with Space Shot. It's left of Space Shot and right of Moon Patrol
Clean Aid Rack
2 sets HB Brass offsets
2 sets Nuts
Lowe Balls: (1 each) #1, #2, #3
TCU's: (2) #00, #0 (3) #1, #2, (2) #3, #4
Camalots: (1)#.5, #.75 (3) #1, #2 (2) #3, #4 (2) #3.5 (1) #4, #5
Double of each hooks
Lots of long runners
No pins needed
BETA PHOTO: The Leaning Wall with Space Shot and Cosmic Trauma...
old topo of Cosmic Trauma from bigwall.com. The r...
K2 making cleaning easy by back cleaning.
By Darin Berdinka
May 23, 2016
Some great climbing but a bit much wandering junk at the start and finish. P5 is a stellar chimney, really great, not to hard for 5.9 with decent protection if you're packing a #5 Camalot. The aid climbing is pretty good, consistently thin. The much ballyhooed crux move on P7 occurs at the roof. I couldn't get anything to stick under the roof so from a C1 cam did a very long awkward reach up around the corner to a mediocre small offset nut followed by some more junk. Tricky move. Hooking directly off the belay on P8 is exciting, though the hook moves are bomber and there's even some gear here and there that might hold a fall. The last four pitches are unfortunately mediocre. Maybe save this route for when you've done every other clean wall in the park.
FYI the anchors are getting a bit long in the tooth. Bolts still seem solid but almost all hangers are Leepers. Adds an extra bit of excitement to the headwall pitches for sure.