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Cosmic Space Dust Lazers 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Christian Knight and Bret Crapo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,868
Submitted By: Christian Knight on Apr 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Neena following up the first pitch.

Description 

Arete feature to the right of Ledgarithm. The holds are big and the exposure is high. Crumbles a bit but will clean up to be stellar.

Location 

Start climbing the slab on the upper tier about 15 feet right of Ledgarithm.

Descent 

Walk off the top north (recommended) or rappel off the top down to Ledgarithm and continue down that route.

Protection 

Pitch 1, 5.7: 8 Bolts to Ring Anchors.
Pitch 2, 5.7: 8 Bolts to 2 Bolts Anchor.
Pitch 3, 5.7: 10 Bolts to Ring Anchors.

A few slings will help with rope drag.


Photos of Cosmic Space Dust Lazers Slideshow Add Photo
Almost the top of the third pitch on March 8th 2014.  Super fun route.  Third pitch is lots of fun.
Almost the top of the third pitch on March 8th 201...
Looking down from the end of the 2nd pitch.
Looking down from the end of the 2nd pitch.
Andy coming up the first pitch.
Andy coming up the first pitch.
A view of AC/DC wall scrambling down after Cosmic's.
A view of AC/DC wall scrambling down after Cosmic'...
Darrell Hodges and Galen Downing climbing <em>Lazers</em> on a cold, November afternoon.
Darrell Hodges and Galen Downing climbing Lazers o...
Cleaning the top of the 2nd pitch of Cosmic Space Dust Lazers
Cleaning the top of the 2nd pitch of Cosmic Space ...
Top of the 3rd pitch! Pretty good exposure.
Top of the 3rd pitch! Pretty good exposure.
Andy topping out on the first pitch.
Andy topping out on the first pitch.
A bit closer view of the last pitch.
A bit closer view of the last pitch.
This climb is rad. To the max!
This climb is rad. To the max!
Top of the third pitch on a sunny March Day 2014
Top of the third pitch on a sunny March Day 2014
Parker leading the 2nd pitch.
Parker leading the 2nd pitch.
Toppin' the 2nd pitch
Toppin' the 2nd pitch

Comments on Cosmic Space Dust Lazers Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2014
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 26, 2008

I did this today in two pitches. I took only sport draws and the rope drag was truly heinous as I started up the section above the belay ledge mentioned by Christian in the description. So much so that I didn't think I could make it to the top. I downclimbed a bit and belayed my partner up from the anchor mentioned by Christian, then continued to the top. A few longer runners at strategic bolts would no doubt help.

Christian shows a good eye on this route; fun, lots of easy climbing with a few short sections of somewhat harder moves. There is one bit that can't be more than 5.5 because of the huge handholds, but it is exposed and a tiny bit overhung and so is really a blast.

We got off in three rappels. The walk off is probably faster but my partner for the day hates walk offs.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this route this morning in 3 pitches. Third pitch was the best, with the most difficult and interesting climbing. I don't think that this is a good route for beginners or people not comfortable leading harder than 5.8. There are a ton of large, loose, crumbly holds that if just pulled on the wrong way will come off. Be very careful when climbing this route if there are people on the routes below you.

Overall, I enjoyed this route and I'm glad I did it, but feel that Snatch and even Ledgorithm are better routes with less choss.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 7, 2008

Not a beginners route!
I grabbed several large holds right next to bolts and they completely fell apart in my hands. Too much loose rock above other popular climbs. We planned to do the rap off but again there were large death blocks right on the lip and we decided that we didn't want to risk it so we walked off.
I WILL say that you do achieve a pretty cool position for such a moderate route.And if you are experienced with loose climbs you can have a very enjoyable experience.
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Aug 7, 2008

While I agree tat Cosmic Space Dust Lazers is not a gimme at the grade, I appreciated that adventure. The rock is a little crumbly, though no more than the classic lines on trilogy (Lord of the slings third pitch may now be an exception to that) and is reminiscent of the classic quartzite "down, not out" principle. There are no runouts, and all the anchors are bomber, so you don't have the pucker factor you get on climbs like Jungle Rot Slot or Banana Dreams.

I especially enjoyed that traverse at the beginning of pitch 2, (old pitch 1) which was not really hard, but awkward enough to keep things interesting. Also, there are many sections of steep climbing, of the sort you don't get on 5.8, but can exist because of the huge jugs everywhere. Fun and different moves from start to finish.

Like almost all Rock Canyon multi-pitch climbs, walking off is a smart idea. The walk of is easy and straightforward, and takes less time than rappelling.
By Aaron Child
Aug 15, 2008

Darren Knezek and I did this in May 2008 and split the last pitch into two pitches. Great route. Love the exposure.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this route again last night and boy has it cleaned up in the 3 years since I did it last! This might be my favorite of the multi pitch routes over here now. The second and third pitches are just plain fun; they're never too hard and when it gets steep, it also gets super juggy.
By Parker Alec Cross
From: Provo, UT
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What's the story with the bolts leading up above the last pitch? I'm hearing rumors that this route is extended into 9 pitches? Just rumors, but I'd be interested in getting that beta, and I don't want to wait six more years for the Rock Canyon guide book to come out...
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 22, 2011

Ask Christian at Mountainworks.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jul 8, 2011

I did this route about a year ago and then repeated it today to find that the rock has been cleaned considerably. Really fun climb now.
By Nathaniel Holt
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 5, 2011

This route is way fun! It is super awesome that it has been added to. Today I climbed 3 of the new pitches that have been added (didnt have time for the rest) all very fun. It was a bit dirty, so go climb it so it can get cleaned up some ;-)! One of my favorite routes and cant wait to finish the whole thing!
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 16, 2011

Did the first six pitches this afternoon (12:30-3:15PM). At the top of the third pitch go left and then straight up a small meadow to two awkwardly high bolts that make up the anchor for the 4th pitch.

I heartily recommend every pitch except the 4th which, though short, is moss covered choss. The fourth and fifth are probably the hardest at 5.8 and 5.9, respectively. From the top of the sixth pitch the walk off is long, involving a significant northward traverse and climb to reach the ridge above trilogy buttress. From there you can descend the front face of squaw to the car or scree surf toward the base of this route. Instead, I recommend rappelling to the top of the third pitch, and walking off to the north per the original route's instruction.

I did not explore the remaining ~200 foot pinnacle for more bolts.
By Jason MT
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 21, 2012

I climbed all 9 pitches today and the new pitches are excellent. They are substantially harder than the first 3 so I wouldn't recommend them for 5.7/5.8 leaders.

To provide more info, I created a new route just for the extension. If anyone has anything to add/correct, or if the person who set the route wants this added into the CSDL route description, just let me know.
By Casey Parker
Mar 16, 2014

Can this route be done with a 60m rope?
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 21, 2014

Wanting to move fast I linked pitches 2 and 3 w/ a 70, skipping a bunch of bolts on easy terrain and putting long, extended slings on all the bolts I did clip on P3. No rope drag.