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Monsters from the Id
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Cosmic Monsters 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Quinn, 11/94
Page Views: 1,767
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007
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James Otey on his flash attempt on Cosmic Monsters...

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.

Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).

A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.



Location 

The bolt line just left of the "V" groove of Heaven (5.11a)....


Protection 

4 bolts to anchor.



Photos of Cosmic Monsters Slideshow Add Photo
jeff at the start, looks like he means business!
jeff at the start, looks like he means business!
sam owens sending his first 5.12 :)
sam owens sending his first 5.12 :)
jeff showing you how to clip the chains!
jeff showing you how to clip the chains!
Jakob as he casualy sends his first 5.12 on x-mas eve day... merry christmas Jakob... <br />Photo by james otey...
Jakob as he casualy sends his first 5.12 on x-mas ...
Joe Kinder goofing around on Cosmic
Joe Kinder goofing around on Cosmic
Jakob on Cosmic on X-mas eve day... <br />Photo by james otey...
Jakob on Cosmic on X-mas eve day...
Photo by james...
James flashing the crux of Cosmic....
James flashing the crux of Cosmic....
Jared at the last bolt...
Jared at the last bolt...
the reason i love this route, fingerlock and a hand jam right where i need it!
the reason i love this route, fingerlock and a han...
jared crimpin to get to the locks
jared crimpin to get to the locks
one more... jeff... climbing...
one more... jeff... climbing...
jared... cosmic...
jared... cosmic...
Joe on Cosmic
Joe on Cosmic
jeff near the top of Cosmic...
jeff near the top of Cosmic...
one more of sam on Cosmic
one more of sam on Cosmic
Comments on Cosmic Monsters Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 19, 2010

just added a video link if you are interested...

By twellman
Oct 20, 2010

Nice video, Lee. Reminds me how awkward getting up onto that first ledge is, haha.

By S. Neoh
Oct 20, 2010

Being small in size, getting onto the 1st ledge was not too bad for me but I got soundly whooped by the boulder problem crux shortly thereafter. Do I just need to "go big" to the obvious right hold off the small crimps in front of me? I remember the move being awkward and extremely frustrating for me. "V4? Somehow I do not think so!" was going thru my mind over and over again ....

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 21, 2010

one of my smaller friends did the boulder problem crux really cool the other day... instead of lunging to the right hand hold she went up left in to an indistinct left hand hold in the crack then went all static out to the good hold.... might be harder than v4 but it was really smooth.... best shorty beta ive seen on it...

By James Otey
From: NH
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I have different beta for the crux as well. I get both the crimps you throw from, but instead of hucking, I get a high right foot and lockoff on the right crimp, crossing over to the jug statically.

By S. Neoh
Sep 18, 2011

Ran out of time and too buggy to get on this one today. Noticed draws on the last two bolts. Why? Did someone make off with someone else's lower project draw?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 18, 2011

the theory i came up with was that someone left those to warm up on the link up Heavenly Monsters but im not really sure... that would count as fixing draws on a 5.11 which i guess we arent supposed to do...

By S. Neoh
Sep 19, 2011

There might also be a random project draw on Heaven (in addition to the fixed ones it shares with a .14 route - All Day Slacker?).

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Aug 28, 2012

nice that this conversation is a year old and those two draws are still there today

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Nov 8, 2012

i find that the obvious handjam post crux is a faux amis...the sharp two finger pocket above saved me