|1. The Cosmic Crag
The trick is protecting in a way that doesn't use your intended hand hold on the crux.... I used a finger-sized cam in the key, hand hold which left room for the hand....
Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....
After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....
The obvious, left-facing corner toward the right side of the cliff.... Follow the corner to the top....
A small rack of cams and nuts....
|By Anna C.|
Aug 4, 2010
This is a great climb and an awesome way to finish up the Hotter Than Hell to Inferno link-up if you are solid on 5.9 - a few steps through the woods and there it is. It also seems to be easier if you are short (!).
From: Oromocto NB Canada
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is a sick route! to bad its so short!!! I still give it 4 stars!