Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
1. The Cosmic Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmic Amazement T 
Gravitational Mass S 
Here Come the Jugs T 

Cosmic Amazement 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul and Andy Ross Aug 1978
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

The trick is protecting in a way that doesn't use your intended hand hold on the crux.... I used a finger-sized cam in the key, hand hold which left room for the hand....

Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....
After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....

Location 

The obvious, left-facing corner toward the right side of the cliff.... Follow the corner to the top....

Protection 

A small rack of cams and nuts....


Comments on Cosmic Amazement Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anna C.
From: VT
Aug 4, 2010

This is a great climb and an awesome way to finish up the Hotter Than Hell to Inferno link-up if you are solid on 5.9 - a few steps through the woods and there it is. It also seems to be easier if you are short (!).
By Theriault
From: Oromocto NB Canada
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a sick route! to bad its so short!!! I still give it 4 stars!
By Sprax Lines
From: Brookline, MA
3 days ago

Gear beta: I placed a red-yellow offset Alien in the first 'key' 3-finger hold *after* using it to pull into an OK stemming-lieback stance with my right hand above it. A red Alien or .4 Camalot might have been good enough, but the offset sank in deeper, as they often do in pin scars. I plugged the beginning of the overlap with two Camalots (.75 and 1), which still left plenty of room to lie-back off the undercling (no jamming until near the top). The remaining placements seemed obvious, even when placing them from a lieback -- no blind placements necessary.
By john strand
From: southern colo
2 days ago

Pin scars ???