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Corte Madera
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Coulter Grove/Rest Home 
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Corte Madera 


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Lat, Long: 32.7555, -116.591 Map
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Administrators: Adam Stackhouse, Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: mschlocker on Mar 27, 2008

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Corte Madera as seen from the approach trail.

Description 

A fine south-facing multi-pitch crag in San Diego county. Corte Madera has a history of both traditional and sport routes. The traditional routes will offer adventure with some en-route bushwhacking. The newer sport routes climb the clean faces of this impressive cliff. The climbs are most easily approached by hiking to the top of the cliff and rappelling to the base.


Getting There 

From San Diego, head out East on I-8. Exit Buckman Springs and head South of the freeway. Right on Corral Canyon road (Morena Stokes Rd on Google). Park 4.9 miles up the road and hike in on a trail to your right (1.5-2 hours). If you have 4WD then continue up the road. Head right onto a dirt road at the first intersection and follow this to within a 1/2 hour of the top of the cliff. I'll have to verify all of this next time I head out there, please check a map.


Access 

Please note that there is a voluntary seasonal closure of anything West (Climbers' Left) of the center of the main wall due to nesting raptors. Feb 1 - June 30.


Route Guides 

The latest (2006) Kennedy climbing guide is a vast improvement from the older guide for this area. It includes many of the newer sport routes. Currently this is the only printed guide (that I know of) for this area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Corte Madera:
South Buttress   5.10a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Main Wall
Sunset Streaks   5.10a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Main Wall
Pay Per View   5.10b     Sport, 90 feet   Video Dome
Puerto Rican Gore-Tex   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   El Nino Wall
Browse More Classics in Corte Madera

Featured Route For Corte Madera
Sweet third pitch

Sunset Streaks 5.10a  CA : San Diego County : ... : Main Wall
Beautiful climb! Thanks to Adam Kimmerly for his beta. Here's the pitch breakdown:P1 - climb obvious gully, moving right onto exposed arete to gain the first belay. 60 feet. 5.7P2 - climb past slabs to intermediate ledge, continue up steepening face to large ledge. 80 ft. 5.8P3 - climb over steep bulge to gain the dike seen from below. spectacular climbing. 80 ft. 5.9P4 - leave the large belay ledge and continue climbing the dike to the summit. 100 ft. 5.10aThere is a variation for the P4 which ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Corte Madera Slideshow Add Photo
Sign at the end of the road near the trailhead, Corte Madera.

Sign at the end of the road near the trailhead, Co...

Corte Madera from the road.

Corte Madera from the road.

cardiac arette, 10.c

cardiac arette, 10.c

depends/cultier grove

depends/cultier grove

May 2009 Updated Closure for Corte Madera

BETA PHOTO: May 2009 Updated Closure for Corte Madera

An impressive and symbolic sunset after such a great day of climbing.

An impressive and symbolic sunset after such a gre...


Comments on Corte Madera Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 3, 2009

Now a new guide option is available. The Allied Climbers of San Diego have created a guide for El Cajon Mtn, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera. It's quite a bit better than the SD climbing guide for Corte. I recommend you check it out at a local REI or better yet come to a member meeting. www.alliedclimbers.org .

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 18, 2013

For anyone planning on War Paint (5P 12a), a key hold broke off the start of the 3rd pitch (12a crux). It's likely now hard twelve at least and impossible to french free it (the first bolt is about 12 feet up or so.) Those inclined can skip the start by going up the 5.easy gully to the right and clipping the first bolt and swinging back in to do the super fun original crux.