A varied four-pitch climb that goes to the highest point on the Leap. Follows the huge right facing corner just to the right of Traveler's Buttress. First pitch is in the corner. The second pitch sneaks out on the left face leading to the base of a chimney. The third pitch climbs the chimney, traverses 5.7 past a fixed piton, and then hops on a beautiful exposed arete. The fourth pitch is basic and can be avoided with a 60m rope.
Cams .5"-3"; Nuts 1 set.
Mar 6, 2008
100% worthwhile. Fun, long, not too scary, beautiful location.
I did this in 3 pitches with a 60m. The arete on the 2nd pitch seemed to be the crux for me. Not unreasonably hard, but exposed and true climbing.
Don't miss the fixed pin before beaching yourself on the ledge for the second belay of you'll be looking at a run out fall on a small nut while trying to shamu your way up some greasy grovelly mantel. When the guy on the ledge pointed out the pin to me after the move, I was annoyed.
Anyway, good pro and exciting climbing make this really awesome.
|By Wesley Ashwood|
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 20, 2009
I havent done many climbs at Lover's Leap, but this was definetely my favorite! There is a great variety of moves and rock type, coupled with fun exposure. We were not even that early (maybe 8) in mid august, and had no wait, and finished the climb well within the time when it is still cool and comfortable. Dont let posts about crowds stop you from this great climb.
|By Joe Ludlow|
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 9, 2010
Pitch 1: Follow the crack. Easy, well protected, sustained 5.6 with one semi-bouldery cruxy move on it. Exit the crack to the left past the rough then traverse to the right to an open belay spot.
Pitch 2: Beautiful exposed arete! Savor it! Beached whale move onto the belay station was "interesting" heh. I tried to do it with a bit of grace, and failed miserably, heh.
Pitch 3: Very easy chimney followed by a very scary airy traverse! IMO the traverse was the crux of the entire climb.
All-in-all a magnificent very stout 5.7. Perhaps one of the best 5.7's you'll ever do.
Aug 24, 2010
A total classic! I like the belly roll mantle at the top of the second pitch.
|By Toby Butterfield|
From: Portland, OR
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
If you want to back up (or just avoid using) the fixed pin that protects the beached whale move on P2, there's a great nut placement just above and to the left of it that protects the move really well.
DO THIS ROUTE! So much fun.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Oct 16, 2011
I expected this route to be the highlight of our long weekend at (and my first visit to) the Leap.
I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.
On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekday, we had a party ahead of us and nobody behind us, and we didn't even get up early.
We thought we'd outsmart the crowds by doing Corrugation first, then coming back down to do Surrealistic Pillar. It worked (we didn't wait a second for anyone) but Surrealistic Pillar was anticlimactic after the Corner, so I wouldn't recommend that strategy, even if it means waiting in line for the Corner later.
Make the trip to the Leap if only to do this route.
|By Chase Shimmin|
Dec 31, 2011
Simply unforgettable. The traverse after the chimney start on the 3rd pitch is definitely the most exposed and scariest part.
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 7, 2012
This is as good as 5.7 gets.
Aug 21, 2012
Oh yea, so good. Some notes:
-3 pitches, not 4.
-Near the top of the first pitch make sure to go right on a slanting crack.
-The belly flop at the end of the 2nd pitch is easy if you use a nice notch for the left foot.
-The ring piton for the 3rd pitch traverse is shit, jug haul after the traverse to the top.
|By Anthony Baraff|
From: Paris, France
Aug 22, 2012
Has anyone intentionally or unintentionally done the 5.8 P3 variation listed in the super-topo guide. Instead of traversing right at the piton after escaping the chimney. I accidentally continued straight up the crack after accidentally leaving the guidebook in the car. Super-topo calls it "a more sparsely protected variation", but I think it was still G/PG. It's a mix of face holds, hand jams and off-width feet. Definitely keeps your attention. My only complaint is that I lost my C4 #2 when it came unclipped from my harness while I was scumming my right hip up the outside of an off-width section of the crack.
|By Ted Sumers|
Jun 3, 2013
i would mention that the p3 traverse goes right after clipping the pin-- my partner and i found this confusing and almost went directly up/left before a friendly party behind us offered some beta!
EDIT: also, DO THIS CLIMB!
From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I was determined to not do the beached whale move...I failed miserably. It must be done.
The traverse out of the chimney (start of 3rd pitch) was the most terrifying to me. Maybe it's b/c by the time you're traversing you're nearly 500-600ft up.
Next time, I'll link it up with Surrealistic Pillar though! Great introduction and 1st climb at the Leap though! I was definitely spoiled.
|By Christian C|
From: Arcata, CA
Jun 4, 2014
A great line.. first i've ever done at the leap! I would recommend bringing a 00 cam to back up the manky piton for the traverse. a stellar route! do it!
|By Bianca Rich|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 22, 2014
Link this climb up with Surrealistic Pillar for a great day of climbing. This is a MUST do if your in the area!
Jul 2, 2014
As all the other posts have said, this is a really great climb!
For anyone who has been reading the Supertopo beta on this climb don't be discouraged. Words like "terrifying" and "most intimidating 5.7 anywhere" are way off base in my opinion. If you are a confident 5.7/5.8 trad climber this is a must do. Well protected jug fest for most of the way with a few small run outs on reasonable 5.7 terrain. Get out there and climb this classic!
From: San Francisco, California
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
FYI 20% chance of rain at the leap = 100%. Also, if you can find a way to get into your backpack and get your rain jacket as soon as possible, I recommend doing this as well. The third pitch is especially prone to rope drag.