Coronary 5.10 R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Kolocotronis, 1973 |
| Submitted By: | Mike fenice on Jul 10, 2006 |
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Mark Mooradian somewhere in the hard part.
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2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a fun TR but scary for those who lead it. The first fifty feet are R/X rated on small and very pumpy crimpers. Start 15' right of Horseman, just right of Apoplexy and climb a very thin vertical seam and a virtually blank face to the right-facing corner up above to the double-bolt anchor.
Location The Uberfall area
Protection Don't bother!
BETA PHOTO: gear on the lower half
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By Denis O'Connor May 13, 2009
| The protection is not all that bad. It's comparable to Apoplexy (photo above). The first two placements are the same as Apoplexy, the next one is a shaky sideways stopper that might be useless, and the one above that is what I thought (hoped?) was a pretty good C3 placement. There is a long runout above that cam, but the moves get easier the higher you go. That's not to say it wouldn't be scary to onsight it (I didn't dare), but it is leadable. |
By Jonathan Clark From: Philadelphia, PA Aug 9, 2010 rating: 5.10 R
| ^^^^^ Well, I did lead it onsight. The first two placements are not on Apoplexy. They are in the same horizontal, but directly below the super thin crack. The protection through the crux is poor to non-existent. I got a #1 or #2 BD micro nut in before the sequence, but it wouldn't be worth much more than a hang. If you blew it going through the crux you would most likely deck from 25+ feet. |
By Jaysen Henderson Mar 21, 2011
| I tr'd this after leading apoplexy, couldn't imagine leading it untill the top sections after the face climbing. crux was definitely low and the near the top is amazing, if there was more placements for pro it would definitely be a classic. |
By Gunkiemike Apr 22, 2012
| A favorite variation of mine is to start on Apoplexy, do the scary flake, then angle rightwards to hit Coronary above its crux. The upper corners of Coronary are terrific to lead, in the 5.7 or 8 range I think. And it's a straight shot to the bolts this way. |
By Dana Bartlett From: CT Apr 24, 2012
| The protection is not all that bad. I lead this on sight; the protection is all that bad. Protection comparable to Apoplexy? That's a joke. |
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 18, 2012
| Very sequency at the crux. Would be a super stiff onsight. |
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