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Mark Mooradian somewhere in the hard part.
This is a fun TR but scary for those who lead it. The first fifty feet are R/X rated on small and very pumpy crimpers.
Start 15' right of Horseman, just right of Apoplexy and climb a very thin vertical seam and a virtually blank face to the right-facing corner up above to the double-bolt anchor.
The Uberfall area
BETA PHOTO: gear on the lower half
|By Denis O'Connor|
May 13, 2009
The protection is not all that bad. It's comparable to Apoplexy (photo above). The first two placements are the same as Apoplexy, the next one is a shaky sideways stopper that might be useless, and the one above that is what I thought (hoped?) was a pretty good C3 placement. There is a long runout above that cam, but the moves get easier the higher you go.
That's not to say it wouldn't be scary to onsight it (I didn't dare), but it is leadable.
|By Jonathan Clark|
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.10 R
Well, I did lead it onsight. The first two placements are not on Apoplexy. They are in the same horizontal, but directly below the super thin crack. The protection through the crux is poor to non-existent. I got a #1 or #2 BD micro nut in before the sequence, but it wouldn't be worth much more than a hang. If you blew it going through the crux you would most likely deck from 25+ feet.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
Mar 21, 2011
I tr'd this after leading apoplexy, couldn't imagine leading it untill the top sections after the face climbing. crux was definitely low and the near the top is amazing, if there was more placements for pro it would definitely be a classic.
Apr 22, 2012
A favorite variation of mine is to start on Apoplexy, do the scary flake, then angle rightwards to hit Coronary above its crux. The upper corners of Coronary are terrific to lead, in the 5.7 or 8 range I think. And it's a straight shot to the bolts this way.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Apr 24, 2012
The protection is not all that bad.
I lead this on sight; the protection is all that bad. Protection comparable to Apoplexy? That's a joke.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 18, 2012
Very sequency at the crux. Would be a super stiff onsight.