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 ADVANCED
Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park.
Select Route:
Campsite Dihedral T 
Chimney T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Directissma T 
Nose, The T 
Vanderbuilt Wall T,TR 

Cornflake Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: One of the Illgner brothers?
Season: winter
Page Views: 969
Submitted By: Justin Dansby on Jun 3, 2008

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About to make the moves from left to right and fol...

Description 

Fun little climb. Starts out down low working the crack for pro and holds. Rock is super solid down low. Move up and use face holds to gain a ledge. Walk on the ledge over to the crack on the right and begin climbing again. Crux for me was a few moves into this part of the crack. After finishing the crack climb moving out right skirting under a roof. Move up onto the massive ledge. I followed the DCA and choose to setup a belay station over on a nearby ledge "on the tree" which was a bad idea. Belaying straight over the climb using minimal gear and slinging natural pro is a much better choice.

Location 

Walk down through the stone door. Turn left follow the wall past a few routes and you will see Rude Awakenings, Monster Movie, Black Widow, and Cornflake Crack. Before you reach Campsite Dihedral.

Protection 

Small to medium gear. Good stances most of the way. Wild Country blue Zero is helpful when trending right to left. Metolious yellow TCU's are helpful.


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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Nov 6, 2008

Very nice pro. Great the whole way. When I topped out I went right around the little boulder.
By Brad Edwards
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 8, 2012

This was a great climb to introduce folks to roped climbing.