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Cornflake Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Hot Henry Barber, 1976 FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway 1972
Season: Dry
Page Views: 7,875
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass? First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic. Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen.

Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.

P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.

P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here. 5.11a, 100'

P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.


Location 

Left end of the steep part of the North Face. Look for a right-facing corner with a short undercling near the bottom. If this is wet, you may want to keep walking.


Protection 

Stoppers, 2 each TCUs, and a double set of cams to 3", with a 3.5" as well. 2 ropes. Fixed anchors.

DESCENT: 2 ropes from the top of P2 get you to the ground; if climbing P3, a single-rope rap from a tree will get you back to the ledge.



Photos of Cornflake Crack Slideshow Add Photo
two unknown climbers on P1 of Cornflake.
two unknown climbers on P1 of Cornflake.
Linking pitches - this is P-2.  Awesome!
Linking pitches - this is P-2. Awesome!
P-1 with the P-2 double cracks seen above.
P-1 with the P-2 double cracks seen above.
Having fun on Cornflake Crack
Having fun on Cornflake Crack
Comments on Cornflake Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Jul 27, 2009

F'ing rad route, and in no way comparable to a Valley climb...it's much better.

Why no bolts at the end of pitch 2? I had to rig a ridiculous 20 foot tether to the big tree that made it impossible to give a tight belay. Why are top-ropers treated better than lead climbers around here?

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 28, 2009

In 35 years of climbing this still rates as the best 5.11 trad climb in my book. Way better than the Naked Edge.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jul 14, 2010

There is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of P-3, behind the large dead hemlock.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Insanely good. Runner the piece in the undercling roof well; my rope was threatening to get wedged in the crack for the whole pitch, which made the tenuous slab moves up higher pretty scary.

By Phoffmann
Mar 22, 2011

In response (2 years late) to the first comment. I built a belay right at the edge of the ledge with #3. #3.5, #4 camalots. I trailed a rope and had my second tag them up when I completed the pitch. Easy anchor and good communication the whole way with the second. People have been crushing this route lately in one long pitch! Nuts!

By nbrown
From: western NC
May 5, 2011

Phil, this is an easy route to link pitches on; you can rest as long as you want at the P-1 belay stance before continuing up. Also, I usually tag up the gear, including the belay cams, for the next bit at this point by attaching it to the end of the rope (no need for a tag line while soloing). The 3rd pitch is the REAL crux...

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

So much fun. Did in two pitches w/ nbrown today. P1 has a low crux with bomb gear, then tricky face climbing with a few more finger locks before the bolts. P2 is more like 10+ but is probably more fun (and more sustained). Stem, Stem, Stem...

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 25, 2012

Shoot-dang this route is good, man. Varied and interesting the whole way. It was a little wet and dirty yesterday but that only made it that much more fun. Certainly rivals wunsch's dihedral in Colorado as the best 11 crack climb I've done.

By Monkey-sa
Aug 27, 2012

Link it all in one super pitch and this is easily one of the best 5.11 routes out there. Sustained, Splitter and Beautiful.

By Abel Jones
From: Hickory, NC
Sep 23, 2012

Single 80 meter gets you down