|West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Cornerstone is the challenging face left of the Chockstone P1 crack. The 9/21/03 Chockstone photo by Guy Humphrey clearly shows the crux section of the Cornerstone face and the thin left-facing flake. According to Rossiter, Mark Tarrant led this self-belay with 2 bolts that were later chopped. Rossiter mentions a second pitch that was also led (presumably by Tarrant) with 2 bolts, and those bolts were also chopped. Rossiter doesn't give a rating or location for the second pitch.
Climb the first few moves of Chockstone to the stance below Chockstone's crux. The climbing is sustained from here for the next 20 feet or so. Move left to reach a thin flake, then climb the flake to its top. With your feet near the top of the flake, move left to reach the arete, which is pretty slick. Another move gets you a small ledge and the end of the hard climbing. It is possible, but more difficult, to move left to the arete after first stepping up onto the flake, rather than climbing to the top of the flake. The next bit feels like cheating: Climb the left side of the arete for a few moves. You are only a few feet from the Knight's Move corner, and you could easily stem over to it. Step back right onto the main face and continue to the anchors. From the ledge after the crux to the anchors is about 5.9 or perhaps a bit harder.
Variations: (I did not do these). Climb the entire arete from the ground, 12 something according to Rossiter. Possible minor variation: Avoid Chockstone by climbing about 2 feet further left.
Top rope after climbing P1 of Chockstone or perhaps Knight's Move. Clip a sling to Chockstone rap anchor, and place a double length sling over the flake to the left with 0.5 to #2 Camalots for backup.
|By Mark Tarrant|
Oct 31, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
This was my first ever FA , and a few weeks later it got chopped! I guess the choppers thought it was too close to Knight's Move or Chockstone. Peter TR'd the arete directly from the ground (.12), and later I led it coming in from the flake. I hand-drilled the bolts on lead (self-belay), from hooks, and fell once when a hook popped while placing the first bolt. The second pitch is very cool but has the major problem of having to climb about 5' of Knight's Move. It starts directly above P1 in a short dihedral and then (unfortunately) traverses left to KM, up 5', and then back right onto the steep face (.11b/c). It had 3 bolts that I wound up pulling because of the problem mentioned. The sleeves are still in place, and I suppose one could screw in new bolts and lead it again (a little runout by today's standards), and then the second could unscrew them and leave no trace! There's an idea for a minor adventure.