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Lower Peanuts
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Cornered, straight up variation 
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Your Basic Lieback 

Cornered, straight up variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cornered (5.9-), going left at flake undercling:Jim Erickson
Page Views: 1,864
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Apr 24, 2001
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Marc, finishing strong. Great finger locks and gea...

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb Your Basic Lieback (excellent short 5.6) and traverse to bolt belay ....climb up past rotten section into steepening dihedral corner that gets steep fingers up to a large flake.

The original route, Cornered or Dihedral, goes left at the undercling on the flake.....straight up variation goes up the steep but fun finger crack right of the flake in the corner (solid 5.9) to a big ramp/ledge with 2 bolt belay up and right.

Rappel 80 feet to bolt belay and 100 feet from there to ground...could easily be done as 1 long and fun pitch.


Protection 

Smaller cams....double bolt anchor for both anchors.



Photos of Cornered, straight up variation Slideshow Add Photo
The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the flake. The direct goes up the corner to the top.
The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the...
Marc, getting into the "business' of the pitch.
Marc, getting into the "business' of the pitch.
Marc, enjoying the steepness of Cornered.
Marc, enjoying the steepness of Cornered.
Comments on Cornered, straight up variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.

By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001

This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 6, 2001

Nice route straight up or undercling left. Nice entertainment just right on Forbidden Planet 11a.

By Ped
Jul 26, 2006

I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback.

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 18, 2008

Felt like solid Eldo 5.9 to me. Very nice thin crack, with good pro available.

By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Aug 22, 2011

Do the 5.9 section. Very fun and protects great.