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Whisper To A Scream 

Corner Pockets 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler & Paul Foster
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Glenn Schuler on Sep 27, 2010
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Description 

Corner Pockets climbs the featured, black face immediately right of the 5.8 Dihedral route. Due to the sparse pro, this route has seen very little traffic. The climb was originally protected with 3 bolts and some natural gear in a horizontal crack (my bad - it was 1984 and all we had was a hand drill and I didn't know any better).

Retrobolted on 9-25-10, I hope more people will have fun on this thing. Thanks to Brandon Schirm for providing the hardware and motivating me to get it done.


Location 

10' right of the 5.8 Dihedral route, just before the Suspender Man cave passage.


Protection 

7 bolts plus the anchors.



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By David Rivers
Sep 27, 2010

Too bad about the retro bolting. The climb was heady and engaging. RIP

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 28, 2010

Thanks, Glenn!

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Sep 28, 2010

I'll 2nd the thanks! (I don't go to Shelf for heady and engaging....)

By slim
Administrator
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Rope soloed this on-sight, after work in approx. '99. Was kind of nerve wracking. There were a couple spots where I had to do "a move" above gear before getting more gear. I think I remember offset Aliens being helpful. Not too sad to see bolts added to it.

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Oct 17, 2010

G-
Wouldn't be surprised if this became one of the area classics w/ the additional hardware.
Great line, thanks for the effort.