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 ADVANCED
Heart Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aorta T 
Corner Crack T 
Heart Attack T 
Meteor Shower T 
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Corner Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ? Probably done earlier by the early SLC crew
Season: year round
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Pete Spri on Jun 21, 2009

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Description 

This route traverses to the far right side of the cliff, following the obvious roof-ish, horizontal crack until you attain the arete (see main picture for Heart Wall). To the right side of the arete is a crack system. To the left are some patinas.

The crux is a somewhat slippery hand crack about 2/3 of the the way up (the most vertical section of the arete) that fades into face moves over a bulge. Expect some vegetation.

Location 

This is the furthest right climb on Heart wall, following the obvious arete/crack system to the top (see Heart Wall picture- arete on the right.

Protection 

Gear to 3" should suffice. Cracks seemed to be somewhat flaring. TCUs and offset TCUs are handy for a couple placements


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