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The Muffins
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Sticky Green Traverse, The 

Corn Muffin 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002

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Dave Caunt leading the first ascent of the "Corn M...

Description 

This is the leftmost bolted route on the Lower Muffin. To reach this climb from the main path, simply walk to The Muffins, and it will be the leftmost climb of the three bolted routes on the Lower Muffin.

This route involves a 5.10 "power" move, as the route has solid grips all the way up, it's just a matter of pulling your body along the way.

The top is a little mossy, but the important grips were (when we climbed it) uncovered.


Protection 

2 draws to a 2 bolt top anchor. Access to set up a toprope is accomplished by walking around the right side of the Lower Muffin to the backside, and then climbing a short distance to the anchors on top.



Photos of Corn Muffin Slideshow Add Photo
Climb the unshaded left route.  No, the tree is not on, though it will be really hard to avoid.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the unshaded left route. No, the tree is no...
Comments on Corn Muffin Add Comment
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By jared toettcher
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 3, 2002

not the most fun climb ever. and remember, the tree's not on, no matter how hard that branch is to avoid :)

By steple
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Variations for the start: In the chimney (not using the chimney, of course) or on the face left of the first bolt, then coming around the arete right at the first bolt. The latter features some fun balancy moves.