Climb the flake to the right of "Lean and Mean", then face climb to the roof. Move left and follow "Lean and Mean".
A good route. There was a bat in the crack last time I did it.
Pro to 2".
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 18, 2007
A 3" cam protects the start, which is burlier and more tenuous than I thought it'd be. The first 12 feet were the crux for me.
|By Ol' Toby|
Feb 8, 2009
The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 14, 2009
Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher.
I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hollow I'm not sure it would hold a fall.
I heard someone call the wide flake start a "hand crack." I had to lie it back. Even for someone with big hands, jamming would be awkward I would imagine.
I also found this route to be sooo much better/more satisfying than Lean and Mean.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011
Very moderate lie backing leads to a what I thought was a slightly tenuous face finish.
|By Kyle Townsend|
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 1, 2012
Fist jams to lieback, start protects well with a 3-4 inch cam. Tech face finish makes a nice finale! Can go right or left to fixed anchors once at the roof. Right variation is nice too and protects fine with thinner gear.
|By Riley McDonald|
Nov 7, 2013
Watch out on the first 15-ish feet of the right variation. The obvious hole in the flake can be threaded, but cams behind the flake likely will not hold a fall. The thing sounds like a gong when you slap it...