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Nearing the end of the crack about to deal with th...
Climb the flake to the right of "Lean and Mean", then face climb to the roof. Move left and follow "Lean and Mean".
A good route. There was a bat in the crack last time I did it.
Pro to 2".
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 18, 2007
A 3" cam protects the start, which is burlier and more tenuous than I thought it'd be. The first 12 feet were the crux for me.
|By Ol' Toby|
Feb 8, 2009
The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 14, 2009
Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher.
I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hollow I'm not sure it would hold a fall.
I heard someone call the wide flake start a "hand crack." I had to lie it back. Even for someone with big hands, jamming would be awkward I would imagine.
I also found this route to be sooo much better/more satisfying than Lean and Mean.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011
Very moderate lie backing leads to a what I thought was a slightly tenuous face finish.
|By Kyle Townsend|
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 1, 2012
Fist jams to lieback, start protects well with a 3-4 inch cam. Tech face finish makes a nice finale! Can go right or left to fixed anchors once at the roof. Right variation is nice too and protects fine with thinner gear.