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This is the prominent, splitter crack just to the left of Christine's Dream
. Start in the same flake and crack as for Christine's
. Traverse left around the nose of rock at the narrow ledge on the left just below the first roof. This puts you at the base of the straight up crack. Originally, ascents of this route set up a semi-hanging belay at this point so the belayer could keep a close eye on the leader through the crux without rope drag from the traverse. Smart slinging and or double ropes might alleviate both the drag and the need for a mid point belay. Either way, the fun begins where the crack starts. A few body lengths of hard climbing on thin fingers tiny wires and obtuse stemming and the climbing begins to "ease" up. The crack continues to widen until the climber finds themselves worming up through an impressive, sideways, offwidth slot to top out. This is a really good route!
A little bit of everything from small wires at the start up to a #4 Camalot at the top. Draws and slings to cut down on rope drag.
By aaron voreis
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
There is now a direct start to Corky's. Follow the bolts to the crack at solid 5.11 Bring cam's tiny to a #3 Camalot + stoppers. Cheers!
From: cold as it gets, CO
Aug 31, 2011
Stout without chalk!!!