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corkscrew 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Hugh Dougher, Ron Matthews
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: Larry S on May 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Saglinda on the final pitch of corkscrew.

Description 

Corkscrew is a great route. The rock on top of the second pitch is high quality for the gap. Some punchy overhang moves on P1; P2 has a scary PG13/R corner off the belay, an indimidating traverse, and some overhang moves to a top out similar to Modern Times.

Scramble up 15 feet off the trail to a ledge with some trees to start.

P1. Climb a slab to a left facing corner that starts at the left end of a low roof. Climb straight up the corner, plug your gear, and pull the overhanging moves above, exiting right (crux) to a belay.

P2. Climb up the corner above on very thin gear, exit right (Mental crux, scary) just below the ceiling. Continue up easier ground for a bit before heading right below and thru a series of roofs (Fixed pin far right), topping out at a distinct step in the last roof (second crux, well protected).

Protection 

Micro gear to protect the first 20 feet of P2. Red and Blue Ball Nuts very useful. Many runners and gear up to 3 or 4 inches. Highly recommend using Double Ropes on this route. P2 corkscrews wildly and rope drag at the top was significant.

To Descend, do an almost entirely free-hanging rap from the stout tree with 2 60m ropes. You will land precisely where you started the route.


Photos of corkscrew Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the second pitch of corkscrew.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the second pitch of corkscrew.
Rock Climbing Photo: A short scramble here brings you to the start of t...
BETA PHOTO: A short scramble here brings you to the start of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan at the belay atop P1 of corkscrew.
Ryan at the belay atop P1 of corkscrew.

Comments on corkscrew Add Comment
Show which comments
By Conor Mark
From: Old Fort, NC
Jul 1, 2014

Best to do this in three pitches. Belay 20ft below final traverse on the left. A #4 is useful for the first belay and final traverse.
By Gordon88
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Jun 13, 2016

I have heard that the pro was a bit sketchy at the beginning of the second pitch, and I agree (I did it in 2 pitches). Being that I didn't have the balls (or the ballnuts) to go straight up, I traversed immediately right out of the dihedral and on to the face. I put in a #2 at my feet about 10 feet to right of where I traversed out, climbed up the face (easier 5.4/5.5 climbing), and up to where you would exit the dihedral, got in pro and then back cleaned the #2. This could take some of the scare factor away... Seemed like a better option then potentially hitting the ledge, or buying a bunch of ballnuts (would think you would want two or three of the smaller ones).
By Conor Mark
From: Old Fort, NC
Aug 20, 2016

There's bigger gear starting half way up the dihedral, and the climbing is not very hard through the bottom section. Skipping the dihedral misses some of the best climbing on the route. Didn't think it needed ballnuts, and as of 7/14 there was a small fixed stopper down low.

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