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The Great Arch
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corkscrew 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Hugh Dougher, Ron Matthews
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Larry S on May 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Ryan at the belay atop P1 of corkscrew.

Description 

Corkscrew is a great route. The rock on top of the second pitch is high quality for the gap. Some punchy overhang moves on P1; P2 has a scary PG13/R corner off the belay, an indimidating traverse, and some overhang moves to a top out similar to Modern Times.

Scramble up 15 feet off the trail to a ledge with some trees to start.

P1. Climb a slab to a left facing corner that starts at the left end of a low roof. Climb straight up the corner, plug your gear, and pull the overhanging moves above, exiting right (crux) to a belay.

P2. Climb up the corner above on very thin gear, exit right (Mental crux, scary) just below the ceiling. Continue up easier ground for a bit before heading right below and thru a series of roofs (Fixed pin far right), topping out at a distinct step in the last roof (second crux, well protected).

Protection 

Micro gear to protect the first 20 feet of P2. Red and Blue Ball Nuts very useful. Many runners and gear up to 3 or 4 inches. Highly recommend using Double Ropes on this route. P2 corkscrews wildly and rope drag at the top was significant.

To Descend, do an almost entirely free-hanging rap from the stout tree with 2 60m ropes. You will land precisely where you started the route.


Photos of corkscrew Slideshow Add Photo
This shows the second pitch of corkscrew.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the second pitch of corkscrew.
A short scramble here brings you to the start of the climb
BETA PHOTO: A short scramble here brings you to the start of t...

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By conorj
Jul 1, 2014

Best to do this in three pitches. Belay 20ft below final traverse on the left. A #4 is useful for the first belay and final traverse.