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Mega Worthy T 
Moral Bells Arete S 
Oopsie T 
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Coral Bells Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, Kevin Sweeney 1988
Page Views: 5,118
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

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Coral Bells from the base of the climb

Description 

This climbs an arete on the east face. This arete is obvious from the fork. This is a great climb that protects well. The crux is definitely the 1st bolt. Clipped high it is a safe overhang to fall on. The smooth face above is tricky but not too hard. The flake gives you a nice natural place to protect. My first ascent, I zipped right past the flake, jonesing on the chains. Aretes always add a degree of mental difficulty to me and this was no exception.

Protection 

2 chains atop for anchors and 3 draws. Bring medium nuts or a cam for the flake before the chains. I documented this as a trad route but it could be a sport route with a long runout at the end.


Photos of Coral Bells Arete Slideshow Add Photo
On Coral Bells running it out a bit to the chains.
On Coral Bells running it out a bit to the chains.
Preston sends Coral Bells Arete in the early morning light of the sun.
Preston sends Coral Bells Arete in the early morni...
1)  Coral Bells Arete  2)  Chambered Nautilus  3)  Birth Simulator
BETA PHOTO: 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered Nautilus 3) ...
Coral Bells
Coral Bells
Jeff from Ontario, Canada enjoying our quartzite.
Jeff from Ontario, Canada enjoying our quartzite.
Photo from Base, Shows proximity to Chambered Nautilus
BETA PHOTO: Photo from Base, Shows proximity to Chambered Naut...

Comments on Coral Bells Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 12, 2014
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 14, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Coral Bells is a short, but interesting route. The first bolt is clipped easily enough, but pulling past it requires a tricky, left heel-hook sequence. The route then becomes a classic BCC smedging effort. A flake on the east face after bolt 3 will protect with any number of smaller cams, after which the climbing is much easier. Overall, this is an unusually technical, rewarding climb.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Jun 20, 2006

a high step is also available to move past the first bolt.
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Aug 12, 2006

Good climb. A little funky getting to that second bolt. There are a plethora of approaches used to pass it. I used a weird side pull on the north side of the arete. My partner just reached way up there and grabbed a high hold on the arete. Either way, its a mighty fine climb. Suggest backing up first bolt with blue metolius.
By James Garrett
Aug 12, 2007

The three bolts on this route have been yanked and replaced by 100% Grade A Beef courtesy of Mike White's help and ASCA. They were all spinners....but they were hard to get out....testimony to the longevity of old 20 year old bolts in BCC. At least they are confidence inspiring and no need for backing up the first one as previously mentioned. Thanks again for the spontaneous rally, Mike!
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Jun 22, 2008

Did this climb tonight and there are 4 more bolts that continue up the face/arette. More of the same 5.8-5.9 climbing. Makes it a little more interesting and not so short for beginners.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 23, 2008

The extension is Moral Bells Arete.
By baegerter
Aug 9, 2009

did this route free solo today, pretty intense...i choose to reach around the arete for the juggy right then work my feet up as high as i can and lunge for the small but extremely positive ledge below the second bolt, pretty smooth after that. the run-out section after the third bolt goes well if you use the arete properly, moral bells extension is all pretty positive and plenty well protected, 5.8ish but adds length to an already fun climb!
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009

The first move is pretty beefy, getting over that roof. I hooked a heel on the right side, then pulled up to the chalked up hold near the second bolt. My partner found a high toe jib that suited him well.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Love this route! An orange Metolius TCU can be used to protect the moves to the chains.
By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route. Do the extension!
By Matheson Harris
May 26, 2012

Should have read the comments better before leading. I didn't bring any pro and after the 3rd bolt I wished I had something to place under the small ledge below the chains. A fall going over this would get you close to the ground if your belayer came off the ground. Thankfully the holds get significantly better at and above the ledge so it isn't a dealbreaker if you don't have any trad gear on you. Maybe only a problem for a novice like me.
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Jun 1, 2012

Missing some scarpa feroces (size 10, red white and black). Last seen beneath coral bells arete/chambered nautilus. Reward for their recovery (beer, or slurpee if finder is LDS)

shoot me an email.
By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Nov 5, 2012

0.5 camalot for the flake set well. Love the start!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

That second bolt! Hot damn! Up to second bolt felt harder than 5.9, with rest feeling 5.8ish. Runout at the top. Didnt have any gear to place.
By Rochelle Smits-Seemann
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 12, 2014

First 20 feet are the crux, but the rest is consistent 5.9 arete climbing. There's another set of chains at the top of the extension.