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Sunset North
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Unsorted Routes:

Copperhead 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Smith, Doug Grayden, mid-70s
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 29, 2007

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Description 

Copperhead is short and off the beaten track (literally), but it's a worthy challenge. Like many routes at Sunset, it's a stiff one for the grade.

From the left end of the ledge, start at a dirty but easy sloping crack that moves up and left to a ledge. Move right to climb a short and tricky vertical crack -- it's well-protected, but too shallow for jams. After the crack, move up the face on sparse and reachy holds to finish with a mantel topout.

Location 

Starts at the left end of a ledge above the trail, about 5 minutes walk down from One-Ten; watch for steps leading to the scramble up to the ledge. Rap from the pine tree at the top.

Protection 

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Sling trees at the top or build a gear anchor on the ledge to climber's right of the topout.


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By Nick Evans
Feb 16, 2012

Solid rock but very pebbly. Not the best.