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Copenhagen Angel 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 22, 2006
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Climbing the reachy 5.11 vertical section of Copen...

Description 

This pretty line starts with thin pockets on a vertical face going around 11b. It is worth the ride alone, especially if the occasionally there lowering biners are in just before the roof. A couple big moves send you through the roof and sets you up for the last clip. The crux comes as you grope just above the roof and the holds shrink. Crank the bouldery powerful crux to land yourself on the vert slab above.


Location 

This is the far left route on the obvious vertical face to BIG roof. Can't miss it.


Protection 

6 clips to anchors.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 12, 2009

This is a pretty cool route for what it is. This is one of those cruxes that feels impossible when you first feel the holds, but with the right body english, it turns out to be NTB. This is also not your typical commitment-free sport climb. There probably ought to be another bolt above the lip, but I'll tip my hat to Skinner and just say that its far more memorable the way it is.

Also, there is a new bolted variation to this that heads left at the roof, called "Full Circle", reportedly 13a.