Mountain Project: Climbing Devil's Lake

Cop-Out starts about half-way between Snedegar's Nose and The Pillar. Climb up the slightly overhanging wall on finger cracks until you reach the inside corner under the mid-size roof. Once under the roof step out of the corner and onto the face to your right. Use vertical cracks to ascend to the top.

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By Anonymous
Mar 22, 2002

f.a. : pete cleveland ?

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 22, 2005
rating: 5.11a

pete cleveland did do the f.a. on this a long time ago.this is a killer lead.and a great place to hang on a hot day.bring plenty of swill.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 25, 2005
rating: 5.11a

nick,the first lead was by Pete Cleveland a very long time ago. it has been led many times since and soloed.

By Trad Nanny
Jun 29, 2009

I remember going right out of the roof. Is the description wrong or is that just a different variation?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.11a

I think the description is wrong. I'll change it.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11a

I'd say the description is way off. Not really finger cracks. More like this

"Start with some good side pulls and layback positions. Continue with those movements. Make a powerful move to a great jug about 25ft up. Move up a bit and take a nice no hands rest. Move towards the roof and ascend the small dihedral to get under the main roof. Move out right and use jugs and good crimps to ascend to top. (there might be one hold in that vertical crack, it is a really tight seam.)"

That being said....This is the best climb I have done at Devil's Lake. 5 stars!!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11a

It does have finger crack action through the dihedral. Bottom section to the big flake was all laybacks for me. Is the big flake and the good pocket above the flake the first gear?

By Trad Nanny
Jul 9, 2009

The first gear was in the flaring-ness about 12 feet off the deck, Met #6 if I recall correctly.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11a

Unlikely but bomber medium nut about 7-8 feet off the ground in a constriction. I didn't really see the great placement until I was at it and the nut sort of slid in almost horizontally straight in. Then the flaring area up and right 12 feet up, I think I put a #3 or #4 BD camalot. Then one more kinda tricky small piece in the thin crack before the crux, then it's pretty much over, as I recall. I only did it once, on sight. Super fun. I did both this and Catenary the same night with SteveZ and I thought they were of comparable difficulty.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.11a

I did Catenary first, and thought the same thing, very similar movement in the cruxes and similar difficulty.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.11a

Fun route! That dihedral at the top is super cool.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2011

Chris, what do you mean by "Unlikely but bomber nut...?" This looks like a great lead.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a

As I recall, there is this strange vertical constriction that is slopey for a handhold, and I stuck a nut back into it at a 90 degree angle and pulled it straight down and then out towards me, and it lodged in pretty tight. I did not expect anything to fit there at all but it was pretty solid. 'Course that was now a couple years ago so YMMV...

I am not really sure it's necessary since you know a half way decent cam will go in the flaring slot about 12 feet up but it made me more confident since at that moment I wasn't 100% sure anything would go in the flare.

Cop-Out

5.11a

Description

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