|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Ed Cooper, Layton Kor 1960|
|Submitted By:||Steven Lucarelli on Oct 4, 2006|
|Comments on Cooper-Kor||Add Comment|
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2007
|This route was a Grade V originally, and sounds pretty serious. However we found it to be easier than expected, many of the pitches are not hard and go quickly. We found perfect conditions during a drought, the route was completely dry. We started at first light but made the summit by noon!|
By Jake Stabile
Nov 21, 2007
|A wonderful route with sections of impeccable granite. As the previous post mentioned there is much moderate climbing which is conducive to rapid progress. An additional consideration is: when attempting this route do so in dry conditions as the upper section can weep snowmelt onto the traverse slab making for certain swing-time.|
Jul 13, 2010
|Awesome position but just "ok" climbing (i.e. the route is a big zig-zag, wet in places, etc.)|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 27, 2014
Fantastic route, and a great option when the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is out of condition. This year (2014) the Cooper-Kor seemed to be getting climbed a lot.
My partner and I both found the route description in the guidebook to be hard to follow. Here is what we did, and I'm convinced we were 100% on route. If you prefer to be adventurous and figure it out for yourself, don't read on.
P1. Start inside the bergshrund at the left edge of the face, and climb an easy wideish crack to a brilliant right-angling finger crack. This leads to a left angling hand crack and a perfect ledge belay right at 60 metres. Awesome pitch.
P2-5. As described above. Note that the book describes the ledge traverse (~80 metres) as 4th class, but you can walk across it with your hands in your pockets. Definitely climb the excellent hand crack variation for pitches 4-5, which felt a lot easier than 5.9.
P6. Belay below the headwall at the end of the cracks, as described above.
P7. This is the infamous traverse pitch. Make note of a right-facing dihedral near the end of the traverse with some tat for a rap anchor at the top. You will NOT be climbing this dihedral. A second, narrower dihedral is just to the right, and marks the end of this pitch.
Climb up to the headwall/slab and clip the fixed pins. Traverse right, passing a fixed pin to the first dihedral where you can place another piece of gear. This dihedral was very wet and mossy in August 2014. Continue traversing right and then climb down about 3 metres only to a very small ledge (more like a wide foothold) at the base of the second dihedral. Belay here using small cams and nuts. Note that in August 2014 there was a BD#2 about halfway up this dihedral, presumably either stuck or used by a previous party to lower off.
This pitch was quite intimidating to look at, but once I got going it wasn't a big deal.
P8. A short unprotected corner is just right of the belay. Climb this bouldery corner to a good stance and a fixed "bolt/pin" with a loop of cable attached to it. Tension right from the cable to reach good holds, or climb free at 5.10. Follow good face holds past a fixed pin (or 2, I can't remember) to reach a thin hand crack. Belay at the top of the crack at a fixed pin. Great pitch.
P9-10. As described above. Pitch 9 felt hard to me, but was excellent.
P11. Scramble for the most part straight up on loose rock to reach the ridge crest which can be followed easily to the summit (4th class).