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Pentapitch Area
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Cool Your Jets S 
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Cool Your Jets 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stuart & Brett Ruckman
Page Views: 1,972
Submitted By: steve edwards on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Cool Your Jets Topo - the route roughly follows th...

Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow 7 right-trending bolts up an overhanging weakness. Turn the lip for a no hands slab move, followed by a roof to the finish. A forgotten classic.

Location 

West of Pentapitch above the creek. Shady and cool all the time.

Protection 

bolts.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun strenuous line with a bunch of unlikely moves. The final mantle might force you to resort to some kind of treachery when pumped.
The bolts look way crusty. Bring a brush, erase your tickmarks.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 17, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Two distinct cruxes. Awesome moves following a right trending feature to an amazing finish! Bomber glue in bolts.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 17, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Unless it's been rebolted, the bolts aren't glue-ins. The hangers are glued to the rock. Big difference.
By Tim Kemple
May 25, 2014

Surprisingly pumpy and fun granite climbing. One of my favorite sport pitches in the canyon.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 2, 2014

Ruckman's found a gem with this one. Steep roundy blocks to a huge spike jug start you off, followed by weird liebacking while throwing your leg around an arete of sorts. The tenuous slab move above requires faith the crystal nubbin will hold your left foot, then a strenous undercling clip over a roof leads to the devious finish where a hidden bomber lieback crack out left is the ticket to reaching the clipping jug. Best sport climb in the canyon(yes, even better than "all chalk")
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2014

This is a great route. All the bolts are in the right places, the moves are tough and thought provoking, and there are a handful of decent rests along the way to stave off the pump. I found the hardest climbing around bolts 3-5; the slab move is tricky but you have a nice rest there to look it over before committing. Great topout as well. The bolts are not glue-ins, but they are in pretty good shape (by LCC standards).
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is fantastic! A nice blend of steep sport climbing mixed with smeary granite foot placements typical of LCC. The bolts have glue placed on them to prevent corrosion. In my opinion, the bolts are ready for replacement. All of the studs and nuts are heavily corroded. Judging by the exterior appearance, I bet at least one of them is sketchy inside the bolt hole. Just a matter of time til we find out which one is severely corroded inside.