Cool Jet 

I would think 11c would be the grade if you had to hang out and place pro on lead don't you? Do people even use hexes anymore?

Piana, 1982.

As for gear, I'd bring some offset friends or hybrid aliens, a set of small nuts and maybe a red alien for the top. Also, some boldness is necessary to get up to where you can protect it after the piton. Orenzak suggests a big piece right off the belay, but if your belayer is squishy, it shouldn't be a problem.

11c with a bouldery start. I tried it a few times in floppy loose shoes and it was utterly impossible. I got it on TR wearing someone elses shoes.Frankly, I thought it would have been MUCH harder for the short. an 11a route with a ??? opening boulder problem that could be 5.11a-12? depending on height. The starting pinch below the climb is broken now too, but I didn't do it, so maybe it's been that way for a long time.

I'd not be downgrading this one either way.

I climbed this route last fall and it was hard - solid 11b or c. I particularly like the face below it if the boulder behind you isn't used. Once to the piton and on the route, it felt like a one-move 11. After the piton, it feels like a difficult 10. The jams suck, but they're there. For the first timer, climb SW Friction or Fantasia and TR using the bolts above Fantasia. I would definitely recommend doing this route at least once.

Seriously brian? Squishy belayers as pro? Solid advice

• Spoiler* - Offsets are the key! A #1 offset Mastercam can be placed about 4-5 feet above the piton, with the next piece another ~6 feet up(I think a #4 offset). I brought along some c3s but never found any confident placements for them. This is a bold line worth doing if equipped with offsets.