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From Fantasia, go right about 5 feet, give or take, to the flaring finger crack that is non-existent at the bottom. What I did was climb Southwest Friction and use the TR anchor bolts from Fantasia. As for the rating, Heel and Toe says 11c. I'm not even close to an 11c climber, so I say 11a/b. But it is very hard. Enjoy!
Just past the horizontal crack, there is a fixed piton. Now, I did this on top-rope, but if anyone does want to lead it - I would take a regular set of nuts and maybe a couple of tiny hexes, but nothing much larger.
|By Jim Redo|
May 7, 2004
I would think 11c would be the grade if you had to hang out and place pro on lead don't you? Do people even use hexes anymore?
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
May 9, 2004
As for gear, I'd bring some offset friends or hybrid aliens, a set of small nuts and maybe a red alien for the top. Also, some boldness is necessary to get up to where you can protect it after the piton. Orenzak suggests a big piece right off the belay, but if your belayer is squishy, it shouldn't be a problem.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 17, 2004
11c with a bouldery start. I tried it a few times in floppy loose shoes and it was utterly impossible. I got it on TR wearing someone elses shoes.Frankly, I thought it would have been MUCH harder for the short. an 11a route with a ??? opening boulder problem that could be 5.11a-12? depending on height. The starting pinch below the climb is broken now too, but I didn't do it, so maybe it's been that way for a long time.
I'd not be downgrading this one either way.
|By Chad Bowman|
Jun 25, 2004
I climbed this route last fall and it was hard - solid 11b or c. I particularly like the face below it if the boulder behind you isn't used. Once to the piton and on the route, it felt like a one-move 11. After the piton, it feels like a difficult 10. The jams suck, but they're there. For the first timer, climb SW Friction or Fantasia and TR using the bolts above Fantasia. I would definitely recommend doing this route at least once.
Feb 25, 2008
Seriously brian? Squishy belayers as pro? Solid advice
|By Clay Stoner|
From: Sheridan, Wy
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.11c PG13
- Spoiler* - Offsets are the key! A #1 offset Mastercam can be placed about 4-5 feet above the piton, with the next piece another ~6 feet up(I think a #4 offset). I brought along some c3s but never found any confident placements for them. This is a bold line worth doing if equipped with offsets.