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 ADVANCED
Bracksiek's Pillar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpinista Sista S 
B Bro T,S 
Coo Coo Cachoo S 
Cool Crack T 
Crack Class  T 
Eye-Full Tower S 
High Center S 
L'il Buckeroo S 
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 
Pre-Emptive Strike S 

Cool Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Adam Floyd on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route ends with the beautiful slightly overhanging thumbstack and thin hands crack. Crack Class shares the less than vertical top. The first pitch is full value with an akward thin slot . Building an anchor as close to the crack on the second pitch will really help out.


Location 

It might take a little while to decide on the base. Don't climb up as if for crack class, but rather continue onto the SW side looking for the flaring crack.


Protection 

standard rack for the first pitch up to #3 camalots. Heavy on.75 and 1 camalots.



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By B Light
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 20, 2014

  • *Notes from a conservative climber**
Rack
Doubles .5-3
Plus
Single .3,.4,#4 (#4 is optional)
Extra #1's (total of 5 wouldn't go unused)
Extra .75's (triples would be good)
Extra #3 & #2 (for the anchor at the top of the first pitch - could use smaller pieces, but #3 will permit you to stand up and belay... else use smaller gear and sit on a slanted small ledge to belay. Your call)

No C3's.
Maybe an Grey/Blue BD offset.
No nut's (but big nuts can be used for an anchor instead of the #3 & #2 at the top of the first pitch... many options)

As many #1's as you want (took 5 and used them all.. it is the piece for the upper crack)

Super fun route. 4 star crack for sure.
Route is in the shade until noon-ish.