Cool but Concerned
||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]|
|FA: ||(TR ) John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Lynn Hill & John Yablonski, 1980 FL: Jonny Woodward, 1983|
|Page Views: ||1,103|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jan 1, 2005|
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BETA PHOTO: Cool But Concerned
Just to the right of Championship Wrestling (the obvious offwidth crack that splits the wall into two) lies this high-quality face route.
Climb thin technical face along a thin crack/seam that jogs right near the top. Excellent rock and tenuous climbing mark this route that will make you work for your ascent. Climbing it is one matter, but hanging on long enough to protect it is another! Don't be misled by the rating as it is equal in difficulty to sport climbs much harder.
Excellent route that deserves more attention and yet another fine climb on a magnificent rock. Three, maybe three and a half stars out of five.
Tiny wires and a few small cams to 1" will suffice for the route. Take pro to 3" for the anchor. RP's or equivalent are necessary on this route.
Cool But Concerned, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Jan 10, 2003
Just as Chis says, this is a great route. But don't be fooled, it has only been led a handful of times, by very good climbers, all who considered the route to deserve an "R" rating. Pro is not only hard to get near the crux, but consists of shallow RP type placements that don't inspire. Most people TR this route. It is worth noting that above the horizontal near the top, there are two different ways of finishing, the left-hand way perhaps a bit easier.
Apr 18, 2015
Pretty much what Randy said: It's a TR...the left way on top IS easier...Excellent rock and HARD.
I've never seen anyone trying to lead this rig.
If this route was in France, it would have 8 bolts and be coated in chalk with a long line.