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 ADVANCED
Farmington Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Cool Air 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: spencerparkin on May 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: The climb fallows the left-side curvature of the w...

Description 

I gave this 3 stars, because you get a great sense of exposure on this climb as it angles out over an over-hanging arete. It's a mixed route. You need trad-gear and there are two bolts to clip on the way up. I belayed Ryan Lauck as he on-sighted the climb as a trad-lead. I've only top-roped it. The top anchors are easily accessible by hiking to the top of the crag, though I recommend putting yourself on belay before approaching the top-anchors. Do not mistaken the top-anchors for Batman Surprise with the top-anchors for this climb! There is a nasty sharp edge above the top-anchors for this climb, so if you're using the right anchors, the edge doesn't affect anything.

A variation of this climb is about 5.10 that just goes straight up the fall-line. Ryan Lauck climbed this too.

Location 

This climb is on the South facing wall of the crag.

Protection 

Standard rack, I guess. Two bolts to clip before a two-bolt anchor. Ryan slung a horn on the way up.


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By Ryan Lauck
From: Farmington, UT
May 23, 2010

if you stick clipped the first bolt, you could treat this line as a sport climb. The bolts are not in logical stances however and you face some cruxy (5.7) moves getting to the first bolt about 25 feet up so I would not recommend leading this without gear.

on the plus side, the rock is great and seems to be the same type of quartzite found in the ogden area with plenty of cool geometric shapes, fractures and incut edges with the occasional polished sloper.
By tenesmus
May 23, 2010

3 stars?? Seriously?? There are 4 available. Think of the best climbs in the whole Wasatch as having 4 stars. You gave this little pile 3 stars. wow.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
May 23, 2010

Who says 4 stars has to be a mountain range classic? Why can't it just be a crag or wall classic? Ah... semantics... Not saying that I agree or disagree with it, just saying that "classic" and "great" are subjective and obviously mean different things to different people. One man's trash is, well, you know the rest...
By Ryan Lauck
From: Farmington, UT
May 24, 2010

i think its fair, ive always interpreted the star system to mean: If you are planning on visiting this crag, these are the climbs most worthy of your attention. I dont think you can rely on the star system beyond the scope of the grade range and crag its in. id rather climb on big cottonwood quartzite any day but for us farmington folk this crag is a nice after work diversion.

to change the subject- do you have any clue who developed this stuff clay?
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
May 24, 2010

Changed it to 2 stars.
By Darren Knezek
May 24, 2010

The straight up line is called, "Grandma's House" and was FA'd by Matt Nielson and Dave Nielsen. They rated it 5.10 and would have put in more bolts, but the drill ran out of power.
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 12, 2012

My brother-in-law and I climbed this yesterday and noticed some chunks of rock ready to go. We couldn't release them, but they were very loose. Watch for these loose rocks as they were perfectly situated above the belayer, ready to take him or her out.