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Cooks Wall

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'Tang area 
Breakfast area 
Cookbook area  
Cooks fin  
Lower wall 
Prow, The 
Upper wall 
Warfare Area 

Cooks Wall 


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Location: 36.4001, -80.2602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,091
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 29, 2010
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Description 

Since there have been a few people looking for info on this place, I dug out the old info and am posting it here. I don't really have the time to write it all up in a formal fashion (if someone else wants to do this, send me an email and I'll edit this post), so use the numbered info in each area in conjunction with the "picture" entitled Topo, and that should be get you where you're going.

This cliff is a good alternative to pilot mountain for winter time cragging. The rock is generally better and the crowds are essentially non-existent. It is a large broken up cliff line on the south end of hanging rock state park that requires a long hike in for a relatively small amount of climbing. The left side (west) of the mountain is generally referred to as Cooks Fin and is subdivided into areas. The right sided (east) of the mountain is large and broken but sports some worthwhile routes, namely "Emla", a 5.13 put up by Howie F back in the 90's . Of special note: the cliff can be quite windy and as a result may be unbearably cold in the winter, or reasonably pleasant in warmer weather. Pay attention to predicted wind conditions.


Getting There 

Drive to hanging rock state park and hike the cooks wall trail. The trail eventually peters out, and there are a couple of access gullies found here on the left, though they are likely to be overgrown. The first large and obvious gully/cleft will lead you down just west of the "Cookbook" area. There are some nice sheer walls on the left side, with some old unknown routes here. The best way to approach the "Cooks Fin" is to continue down the ridge a short ways and locate the gully on the left. It will bring you out by the "Breakfast Wall".


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',7],['5.12',5],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cooks Wall:
sleeping above the kitchen   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   'Tang area
Great taste of tang   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   'Tang area
Deceivious   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cookbook area
Browse More Classics in Cooks Wall

Featured Route For Cooks Wall
Seth Tart eyeballing the 2nd crux Theatre of Pain <br />Photo by Chris Huffine

Theater Of Pain 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c  NC : Cooks Wall : Cookbook area
This is an amazing stretch of North Carolina overhang with multiple cruxes and sustained climbing. The line starts pretty much in the center of the wall. Start on jugs that lead to a technical buldge at the second bolt. The climbing is not harder than 5.10 between the second and third bolt, however it would not be wise to fall between them. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

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By David Barbour
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 28, 2014

Seth, thanks a bunch for putting up all of this info. Heading up there this Sunday to check it out, psyched!